Road Trip

Our bus made it only 50k but succumbing electrical failure at the depot in Trelew.  2 hours later the replacement bus showed and we continued the trip that would bring us overnight to Rio Gallegos and on-ward to Ushuaia.  The landscape continued the same under a beautiful that stretch in every direction into the late evening as we crossed the 49^th parallel – South – just after the solstice.

Entertainment on the Andesmar bus included movies, tea and snacks at regular intervals, and of course more Bingo Andesmar.  However our Spanish only attendant made playing a lot more difficult, combined with hard card paper and flimsy coffee stick do the punch outs.  Should have brought the bingo blotter...

After a civilized roast dinner and red wine we both settled for another restful night as our bus heading south to Ushuaia.  Our morning bus ‘lay-over’ was cut short by our delay and we found ourselves dragging baggage immediately to the next bus upon arrival in Rio Gallegos.  Our guidebook described it as a ‘nothing’ town and it the dilapidated bus depot was an indication, it is.

The temperature was noticeably cooler here and the countryside? - you guessed it – not dissimilar to the past few days.  We were now just one bus ride and 600km from Ushuaia and Fin del Mundo (The end of the earth).

Despite the downgraded bus service – what no reclining leather chairs and blankets? – we were on our way quickly with a breakfast of fresh croissants and drink.  We raced towards the Chilean border, which would again have to exit shortly there after. 

Then the waiting begin.  With their socialist tendencies things are well ‘officiated’ and our first crossing into Chile took what we thought was a painful 2.5 hours.  We were slightly concerned as the bus slowly left the border that no one had looked at our custom declaration.  We made the first rise at 1km and the stop for customs / bag inspection.  Another line, another presentation and stamp of the passport and now a bag check located near the door.  With 3 other buses in queue it looked like a congo line stretching out the double doors.  All total 4 hours to enter Chile that we will leave 120k later. 

Inspecting a map you’ll find that this portion of Chile’s road are only gravel.  With the only destination Ushuaia back in Argentina they seemingly have not incentive to improve them.  I’d imagine this is a hot topic when the countries respective tourism ministers meet.  Perhaps they just fly…

We bumped along the hilly route.  Mostly single lane with little shoulder to speak of.  A short ferry ride across the Strait of Magellan broke up the monotony.  We thought of the numerous people we had meet cycling in the fall and that the narrows roads, lack of services (none!) combined with the dust and wind would be a huge challenge for their final miles.  

No surprise that our next stop was a Chilean military police stop with the Argentina border in sight.  Another line, another stamp, another hour.  We arrived at the Argentina border crossing at hour 10 of the ride, travelling an entire 300km. 

By comparison to the their neighbors the Argentines had us out the door in 30’ and we pressed on enjoying the smooth tarmac.  We were well into conversation with a Dutch couple who had traveled the areas we would see next as we transitioned into the rugged peaks nearing Ushuaia.  A collective sense of relief came over the bus – we were close! 

We both remarked that we were back in Vancouver as the bus rolled down the final few kms to Ushuaia.  The Beagle Channel opened far to the west while Dientes circuit to the south provided a dramatic backdrop to the sunset at 11:30pm.  We muddled our way into a cab and found a warm shower and comfortable bed waiting for us at our hotel.  We made it to Fin del Mundo!