We wandered down to the waterfront to have our final pre-trek meal at Los Pioneros restaurant. It was a massive feed of incredible seafood soup filled with mussels, scallops and clams combined with a huge filet of sumptuous salmon. The harbor and Andes Mountains framed our window-front table. We contemplated why we'd want to leave this for the rigours of trekking.
Day 1 – Park Entrance – Las Torres Mirador - 21km
We caught the transfer bus to the park promptly @ 7:30am. It wasn’t long until we stopped at the tourist hub of Cerro Castillo, a collection of shops hawking maps, books, sweaters, and coffee to half dazed tourists.
We caught up to several tour buses on the approach to the park entrance at Laguna Marga. Park rangers quickly shuffled us through the park registration – most importantly paying your 30$ fee – where we left the rest, opting to walk the 7.5km to the trailhead at Hotel Las Torres. The views of Cerro Almirante Nieto under a cloudy, morning sky and it gave us the opportunity to make adjustment to our very heavy packs.
The Torres Del Paine Park is a huge Massif that bursts out of the foothills around it. While not considered a part of the Andes range, its Southern range surrounds it. Today’s walk guides us up to the parks main attraction of the 3 granite spires that rise to almost 3000 meters. We hoped the cloud would lift and provide the wonderful views we’d seen in photos.
After a flat approach past the beautiful hotel the hike entered Valle Torres and we gained altitude quickly. Our enthusiastic pace was slowed by the reality of the packs and the now sunny skies beaming down. After 75 minutes of climbing we began a slow descent into Refugio Chileno. Stopping for a break under a now cloudless day we observed the numerous day-trippers making their way to the Torres in fresh new boots, and their North Face sweaters.
We made the final push to Campmento Las Torres, setting up camp near a fresh water stream under a canopy of Lenga trees. Tired from the walk we had a well-deserved nap. We like naps!
We attacked the final knee-popping ascent to the Mirador Las Torres near sunset, being rewarded with outstanding views. The three granite spires rise almost 1.5 kilometers above the surround cirque. They appear so close but are actually some 20km away from the viewpoint. We lingered for a time, drinking in the sunlight, and then being mesmerized as the beams of light shot out from the gaps between Las Torres and sunset took hold.
The descent from the Mirador was more challenging than the ascent as it was filled with loose gravel and rocks. We came across numerous rock climbers trudging up the mountain lugging gigantic 100+ pound packs. It was a weeklong trip just to get to the climb and clearly for the hard core only.
Our meager meal of rice, avocado, and tuna was surprisingly very tasty, always better after a hike. We hit the pillow early anticipating an early morning as we hoped to take in the sunrise at Las Torres.
Day 2 – Las Torres Mirador – Campmento Seron
Stumbling up the Mirador climb under the light of headlamps just 8 hours later caused us much humor. Most readers – and definitely our parents – would think it a little mad that we had to go up to see these three rocks again.
Making the viewpoint at 5am, joined by another dozen warmly dressed trekkers I set about heating some water for a warm drink while Dee laid our sleeping bags out to stay warm. Watching the sun paint the early morning sky anywhere is truly amazing. It was a tradition we often enjoyed in Bermuda on our am bicycle rides, the feeling that you were some how more connected with the world when you woke up with it.
With a hot café in hand and the warmth of our bags we sat slack-jawed while the light gleamed off the spires just fifteen minutes later. It was a completely different illumination from the evening before with one small cloud in the impossibly blue sky surrounding them.
We lingered for almost 90 minutes, enjoying another warm drink as the sun rose high into the sky. Reluctantly we left our perch as we had a(nother) big day ahead of us. We enjoyed the descent of Valle Torres, encouraging tired walkers – “you’re close”
Retracing our steps past Hotel Las Torres and the campground we speculated the time and distance for the final leg. Our park map said 9km, our guidebook 16km, and now the trail marker indicated 12km. What’s a trekker to do except press on!
The walk carried us along a hillside with wide-open views of the valley and rivers to the North. We crossed paths with a Swiss couple that were abandoning this leg of the hike, as it was not what they expected. While it certainly wasn’t the ‘wow’ factor of Las Torres we were happy that both would have never considered abandonment so early in a trek…
Around hour six and 30km into the hiking we did begin to flag however. The meadows filled Mata Negra – A daisy look a like – was not enough to hold our attention. We were tired, hungry, and in need of the hot shower promised in our guidebook! Thankfully we rolled into camp shortly thereafter where the scale hanging from the tree revealed our pack weighed 60 and 40 pounds respectively – no wonder we are tired!
Day 3 – Campmento Seron – Lago Dickson – 19km
After a peaceful warm up in the meadows, today’s walk brought us straight up a short but very steep climb to a windy pass and descent. You could lean yourself out into the wind along the trail and be being suspended at a 20 degree angle. Our weighted packs acting more like an uncontrollable rudder on a boat and we stumbled more than few times on the descent.
The valley offered 270-degree Mountain View while the massive Dickson glacier slowly revealed itself as we walked west towards Camp. This scene from the viewpoint above the camp was spectacular with most of the glacier visible along with the summit of Cerro Ohnet and Lago Dickson. After a short, steep descent we arrived at the campsite, one the prettiest we had ever seen.
 |
| Looking down from the ridge @ Campamento Dickson |
With the sun still shining brightly – now its 3rd day in a row, rare – we braved to wade into the lake to soak our aching and blistered feet as well as a proper sponge bath. The gunmetal grey water took your breath away although we felt quite wimpy when a fellow hiker dove right in and swam around for a few minutes.
We returned to the rocky beach to enjoy another surprisingly good rice and vegetable dinner, taking pleasure in life’s simple things.
Day 4 – Lago Dickson – Los Perros – 9km
The beautiful evening deteriorated into a windy and wet night. We notice the winds here in addition to being relentless are unpredictable. They can peak as easily at 4am as 4pm and rise from relative calm to gale force in minutes. We had breakfast in the tent, a cooking challenge to say the least before the wind strangely settled and the sun crept out long enough for us to make a quick and dry exit. You always hope for these windows of opportunity when you break and make camp, hoping to at least start the next days hike dry or camp the same.
The trail gained altitude quickly and reminded us of walking in the old growth forests of B.C.’s west coast except the notable absence of animals. We seemed to be far ahead of the other trekkers this morning and enjoyed the creaking of the trees swaying in the winds above.
After crossing numerous bridges over the Rio de Los Perros – named in honor of a shepherd’s dogs who had perished in its thunderous white waters - we began to catch glimpses of the hanging Los Perros glacier. We scurried over 400m of wet boulders and began the final few minutes of ascent to the lake. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated quickly and we find ourselves turning away from the repeated storm force gusts, using our poles as a brace. During a lull we tried to creep up over the natural levee to catch a view of the lake and glacier but were again turned away by the oppressive winds.
With just 15 minutes to camp and the weather worsening we trudged along into the teeth of the wind and rain. Dee made an ill-timed slip on a rock, badly twisting her ankle and limped the final meters into camp wet and in some pain. We found what we hoped was a dry campsite and pitched the tent. Luckily the area had a sheltered cooking area and we could warm up with a piping hot cocoa and bowl of soup out of the wind and rain in the absence of walkers.
By the time we returned for dinner our kitchen was a raging party consisting of the 30 or so trekkers that were following our same route. We seemed to be the only ones that hadn’t brought a bottle of hard stuff in our packs and it contributed to a festive mood. An empty steel oil barrel served as a campfire and looked on in curious interest at the gourmet foods being prepared. There seemed to an inordinate amount of hotdogs being prepared for our liking.
Day 5 – Los Perros – Paso John Gardner – Campmento Las Grutas – 19km
We climbed steeply and immediately upon leaving camp in the boot deep mud trying unsuccessfully to avoid the wet. After four days of steady walking we felt like we were getting our hiking legs under us, although Dee’s puffy, stiff ankle was a cause of concern.
Well ahead of schedule we burst onto the loose rocky scree that marked the last 45’ to Paso John Gardner so named for the English outdoorsman who originally marked out this trail. We’ve come to find out that Gardner, now near 60 returns frequently to trek the glacier and retrace his steps around Paine with a trusty wool sweater to brave the elements.
At this exposed point we were prepared to find the fiercest wind but the low cloud cover brought a reprieve and we could take in our first look at the Glacier that engulfs the valley as an incredibly huge river of ice. The glacier is an extension of large Hielo Sur ice fields that occupy 13,000 sq km and is over 600km in length.
We now began the steep, challenging descent of the Paso and the wind came with vengeance, blowing us upright on several occasions. Cutting down to the tree line we entered an extremely challenging descent with each step two to three feet down. A poorly maintained rail and rope system adding to the difficulty. Our descent was purposeful and slow, stopping often to admire the changing colors of the glacier peeking through the trees.
We experienced the climb and descent on exposed ladders of rugged riverbeds near the end of the day. Our guidebook informed us that if the ladders had been swept away in the spring storm you would have to cross ‘using your wits’. We were happy to see them there.
We rolled into Campamento Las Guardas at 4:30, a long six and half hours after starting. It could be best described as minimalist camping complete with an Asian – style squat toilet with used toilet paper overflowing in the waste bin. The site was beautiful however, as a two minute walk led to a stunning viewpoint at the head of the glacier which we admired over afternoon tea.
The sun burst through the clouds near sunset and we moved dinner to the lookout, fruitlessly hoping for the glacier to calve. The fantastic white and blues at the glacier’s head reflecting in the water gorgeous the light reflected the valley in a different light.
Day 6 Las Guardas– Camp Pehoe – Campamento Italiano – 26km
After yesterday’s testing hike, today was a long march along a rolling path, first paralleling the glacier then Lago Grey. The weather continued its cloudy, grey theme but with the wind gently pushing us from behind we made great time.
We were clearly back on the more touristy ‘W’ route as we came across numerous guide led groups making their way up to an inferior glacier viewpoint. It’s times like this that we are happy we can walk the extra mile so to speak and explore some relatively untouched locations.
Arriving at Campamento Pehoe we devoured a bag of crackers and jar of peanut butter discovering our mutual love of this simple snack. The weather report was foreboding.
Energized we continued along the ‘W’ along the front side of Cerro Paine Grande and looking ahead at Cuernos del Paine to Campamento Italiano. We could see the weather deteriorating into Valle Frances ahead but we got caught up absorbing the view of the Lago and it’s beautiful azure water drawing deep contrast against evergreen forest bordering the lake.
Roaring white water and an extremely sketchy wooden bridge crossing brought us into Camp Italiano at the base of Valle Frances. While it was a tent city, resembling a MASH unit with hikers crowded jammed in smallish cooking area. We somehow managed to find flat, dry, and secluded site just meters from the stream and made camp in-between showers. Dee’s feet were a mess, populated by blisters large and small and she went about the painful experience of doctoring them as best she could. I kept myself busy preparing some hot drink and food. I could already see my breath at 5pm, foreshadowing a cold night. After a brief respite, the wind and rain drove us into the tent at 8pm although our tiny tent allowed us to get warm quickly.
Day 7 – Italiano – Valle Frances – Refugio Cuernos – 18km
The rain and wind persisted well past the alarm bell at 8am and we stayed in the relative comfort of our bags reading our books and falling in and out of sleep. Reluctantly, I ventured out into the wet to prepare breakfast as we had a reasonably busy day ahead.
At 11 am a break in the weather allowed us to set up for the walk up the valley which some had proclaimed was the highlight of the trek. With rain quickly turning to sleet bordering on snow gave us pause after 45’. We chatted with a descending hiker who waited an hour in the driving snow at the viewpoint. Discouraged, we decided that Mother Nature had finally decided to change our luck and hesitantly wandered down the mountain. Silently we were thinking the same thing – we have to go up! – so after some debate u-turned again into the teeth of a Patagonia storm. The snow stopped at the first viewpoint allowing beautiful views to a hanging Glacier to the west. We asked a guide what she thought of the weather hoping for an omen. She hummed and hawed for a moment before proclaiming ‘Give Patagonia a chance!’ We laughed, that was the omen.
Almost on cue the clouds lifted as we trudged up the mountain lightened by the absence of packs wemade great time and the sun lifted to bring in blue skies just as we made the viewpoint completely alone. The views were breath taking and despite our bias for Las Torres it was certainly a highlight. We enjoyed our first sunshine in a couple of days before a leisurely hike downwards into the clouds and rain.
We ate the last of the crackers and peanut butter before breaking camp and the final 2-hour walk to the next camp. The undulated walk along the beautiful Azure water of Lago Nordenskjold was stunning and included a chance to walk along its rocky beach.
We made a lovely dinner of pasta amid some conversation from a young Canadian couple that advised us on cheap food and drink in Puerto Natales. Some troubling news was confirmed that there was indeed an escalation in the gas strike in the Magellan region and the park gate and Puerto Natales the epicenter. Speculations abound of whether we would be able to leave the park after finishing the trail tomorrow.
Day 8 – Refugio Cuernos – Hotel Las Torres – 13km
We awoke a little tired after our off kilter tent set up led to a restless night. The morning sun was a refreshing change from our last few mornings and the knowing of our final walk ahead of us. For the 2nd day in a row the trail was empty – clearly the strike was still on – and we made progress quickly, completing the circuit at Las Torres. 140km in 8 days. No small feat. Now the waiting begins.
No comments:
Post a Comment