Puerto Madryn

We awoke with a jolt at 5:30 am.  Still on the bus and continuing to head south.  The sunrise was magnificent as it opened over the barren Patagonia landscape.  We have read much about Patagonia; in guidebooks, the Internet, of course the mandatory South American adventure novel, The Motorcycle Diaries by Che Guevara.  However our Canadian upbringing meant seeing vast, wide-open space were not new. The rising sun knifed through the morning cloud onto to the low shrubs of the gently rolling landscape.  As Dee peacefully slept we stopped briefly at Las Grutas to exchange passengers before making the final push to Puerto Madryn.  The steepe/desert landscape was reminiscent of the drive in Palliser Triangle of Southwest Saskatchewan - vaguely familiar yet a world away. 

As the bus swayed to and fro I was reminded of our cycling friends Liz and Phil warning us that the wind was ever-present, as permanent as the shrubs, rocks, and barbwire fences. We arrived in Puerto Madryn mid-morning and relatively refreshed.  A short walk brought us onto the city’s ocean front boulevard in this desert city by the sea.  Truly an amazing contrast and the warm, fresh ocean breeze put a smile on both our faces as we enjoyed a snack.

We had a big agenda in the next 48 hours.  Renting a car far too small for our long-limbs we sped out of town continuing to head south for Punta Tombo, 180km South.  Our destination was the coastal Magellan Penguins reserve that is home to a ½ million - 25% of the world’s penguin population - birds.   Our first Argentina road experience was pretty much as expected – fast and furious – as we skipped by Trelew before leaving the aggressive drivers along the RN3 for the road to return us to the coast.   Smooth pavement gave way to dusty, washboard gravel for the final 35km.  We were both entertained by the numerous road signs warning drivers of the pitfalls of rural driving.  Clearly not intended for two Canadian country kids!

A short walk over a hill from the reserve parking lot unfolded a tremendous scene.  Penguins filled the hills from here to the water a ½ mile away.  The walking path brought you as close as you wanted as the birds waddled their way from the beach to their dens.  We witnessed a far too intimate mating scene while neighbors looked on approvingly.  When not clumsily waddling along, the birds steadied themselves into the breeze – Patagonia remembers – content to let the tourist get their pictures.  It was an amazing sight. 

We made a detour into the small beach-town of Playa Union where I happened across a great deal of fresh cherries at 3pesos (.75$) / kg only to find out I needed to by 30kg to get the deal.  Dee felt that might a few too many for the next bus trip…

We retraced our way back to Puerto Madryn, continuing North to Peninsula Valdez National Park. 

After being fleeced once again at the park entrance where foreigners pay four x as much as Argentine nationals and 15x locals.  Plus an additional change b/c the car was a rental we flew down the barren highway to Puerto Pyramids, the areas only town. 

After a day of driving (500km) in Patagonia we got a sense of how vast and barren it is.  While people often comment on how desolate the prairie landscape is, by comparison to here it is an oasis.  In the northern portion it seems like little grows over a meter in height.  We’ve yet to see the herds of sheep and cattle grazing described in our guidebooks rather just miles and miles of nothing but tremendous blue skies and hot weather.

The nearly empty tiny town of Puerto Pyramide posing our first view of big sky sunset in over a month.  The black sand beach was incredible and deserted allowing us to enjoy fading light in solitude.  Dee rated it a top 5 for this trip.  We’ll let her review the archives before reaching a final verdict.

The bright sun chased us out of tent early and after debating the merits of a whale tour by boat before deciding against it as the migration season had come to a close.  We repacked our super-compact rental and put it to the gravel to re-test its mettle. 

We viewed dozens of Sea lions from our first stop at Punta Loboto including numerous newborns.  Watching them shout and play-fight kept us entertained in the warm morning sun. 

Moving to Punta Norte we re-joined the tourist route being run down by numerous tour buses filled with tourists making the daylong sprint from Puerto Madryn.  Punta Norte did live up to its billing as a major elephant seal nesting ground.  The sea-lions and giant seals seemed to live in harmony on the beach and we laughed at the now relative grace of the sea-lions in relation to elephant seals dragging themselves along the sand.

We felt a bit of Bermuda here as the viewing points were filled with English voices and celebrity cruises golf shirts as it turns out Puerto Madryn and the Peninsula is a major stop on the South America cruise circuit.  No wonder...

We made a small – and slightly illegal – stop at an incredible look off along a 30mile stretch of crystal clear blue ocean near Caleta Valdez.  Billions of small stones and pebbles perfectly smoothed and ovalized from the relentless wind and waves.  The road sliced through numerous large estancias (ranches) sporadically filled with sheep and Guanaco (llama).  While the sun continued to beat down brightly the wind gusted small whirlwinds on the gravel road. 

Dee put her eagle eyes to work spotting both a Right Whale and pod of Dolphin in the distance getting many thanks for the fellow on-lookers at the Caleta Valdez viewpoint.  In close proximity were more penguins and sea lions playfully exploring in the water.

After an ill-fated attempt to enter the exclusive Punta Delgada in the South – East corner we made a very dusty and bumpy expedition to Playa Paradelas near Puerto Pyramide.  It started as an unfateful walk to a rocky point 1k from the beach.  Dee’s hat blew into the water – by I managed to hang over the cliff and retrieve with my toe – as wind picked up to a stiff 50k.  As we looked out on the waves crashing the cliffs Dee again spotted a whale – or was it two? – Far off in the distance.  Confirmation came as the whaleboat nearby sped towards it.  Almost on cue to Dee’s out loud wish the whales would come closer the whales did.  First looping near the beach before making a slow beeline towards us getting as close as 10m.  It was a mother and calf, which we were told later, was rare for this time of year.  We felt very privileged.  We dreamily recounted the story numerous times as we contemplated another gorgeous sunset. 

A sunrise run up and down the deserted beach kicked off our next morning.  Breakfast consisted of little more than a piece of fruit as there is little going on in the sleepy little town until the tour buses show up at 10am.

We made a quick trip back into the pretty beach city of Puerto Madryn finding time, to take a stroll on the beach.  We had to grab a quick lunch and drink to make our 1:30 bus only to find it was delayed an hour.  It was a good opportunity to reflect on the busy last two days.