Reflections - Farewell to Patagonia

Lago Frey - Nahuel Huapi Traverse - Bariloche, Argentina

We leave Patagonia as we came, hurtling down an impossibly straight stretch blacktop on a luxury motor-coach.  A poor Hollywood film dubbed in Spanish – with Spanish subtitles interestly – blaring inaudibly across the bus.  Endless miles of shrubs and brown earth fill the landscape in both directions while the sun beats down from a blue sky.  And the wind?  Well, it blows today like most other days, steady and unrelenting…

The eternal Patagonia winds are the region's defining features.  With thousands of square miles to pick up momentum and nothing but a narrow strip of mountains to slow it down the wind defines your days.  We heard stories of bicycle trips halted for days – and even weeks – , tents shreded and tossed over snowy mountain sides in the face of its incessant blowing.

It was a mixed blessing to come at the height of summer.  We think – or were at least told – the weather was on our side for the most part during our numerous foray into countryside.  25C and sunny in Ushuaia for five days.  Even our 20 year hotel host hadn’t seen such a thing.  We enjoyed the majestic Las Torres spires in all their glory at both sunset AND sunrise but for one cloud breaking up the blue skies.  We summitted two Volcanos and were rewarded with amazing 360 views for as far the eye could see.  And the sunsets?  Incredible, idlyic, ….

Monte Tranador, Nahuel Huapi N.P., Argentina

The sun did release the notorious Tabanos – Patagonia’s ferocious horse-flys – causing to spend more than one afternoon in cover of the tents while they buzzed relentlessly above the tent fly.

We learned about the genial but suspicious relationship Argentina and Chile share in this little corner of the world.  We’ve patiently waited at border crossings, police checkpoints, and customs offices.  Forms have been painfully completed in triplicate only to be placed in a seemingly unending pile of like papers as the passported are stamped for the umpteenth time.  Congo lines form with backpacks in hand all in hope of finding a piece of fruit that may be trying to hop the border unchecked.

Local politics even came to the forefront as we found ourselves caught in the middle of nasty dispute over a gas price rise in Puerto Natales, Chile.  We learned to be patience, make informed decisions, but to also trust our instincts and not look back.  In the grand scheme of things it was a minor inconvenience but no less an learning opportunity.

Finding ‘Fin del Mundo’ in Ushuaia, it was not as bleak and uninhabited as we thought it would be.  Gourment restaurants, artensal beer and bread graced the beautiful city of Ushuaia which reminded us much of North Vancouver as it backed again snowcapped peaks with the Beagle Channel as its front yard.  Sunsets at 11pm were reminiscent of a Canadian summer.  In December.

As expected, the hard climate has created hearty but friendly people.  Despite our limited Spanish we’ve been met warmly at the hotels, cafes, restaurants, and grocery stores that comprise the core of our days.  Of course, following the ‘gringo trail’ – even in Patagonia -   puts you in good standing as far as you meeting one’s basic needs.  Show up at hotel reception, you probably need a room for a night.   A restaurant?  Good chance they’ll feed you something you’ve heard of before. 

Our forays into nature have been outstanding.  We supposse that the centerpiece was the epic eight day circuit in Torres del Paine N.P.  The landscape was beautiful and ever changing while we experienced true Patagonia weather  - ‘wait 15 minutes and it’ll change, and it did!’ We admired the paws Glacier Grey dipping in the lake for hours like two schoolchildren.   ---- finding it hard to imagine a more rugged beauty.

Experiencing a ‘cruise’ –even if was on a cargo ferry – provided more than was bargained.  Snaking our way through the innumerable fjords of the southern Patagonia provide more close encounters of the glacial kind.  Meeting new friends, with plenty of face time to get acquainted was memorable.  Of course NaviMag bingo is forever etched in our brains.

Counting our good fortune we devoured fresh seafood nightly between hiking and biking in the Chilean Lake District.  Often we had the opportunity to debate the merits of Chilean wine to wash it down.  Breakfasts were no less anticipated given the heaps of fresh berries to complement the bland breakfast cereal and powdered milk.  Ice cream and cafés were abundant and we the most  over a glorious sunset at a non-descript campground on a popular devoid of view people in the height of trekking season.

“Bano privados"- private accommodation -  limited those truly authentic travel experiences involving you and a local but we have enjoyed the encounters.   Warm friends, guidebooks, and weather forecast continuely confirmed that in our seven weeks we have explored the corners of this vast region.