‘How is the rythmn’ - Volcan Villarica

From the Summit of Volcan Villarica

Stopping for a short breather on a ridgeline at 2200m we asked our guide Hernan for the ice ax lesson and whether the crampons we'd been lugging in our bag would be needed, seeing that most everyone else had them on.
GT - "Should we put on the crampon now?"

 Guide - "You are experts, I think not necessary.”

GT -   “How about the ice ax that I've never used before?”

Guide - “You hold like this and dig in snow if falling.” 

Guess that was the lesson…

We were unsure what we might find in Pucon described as ‘The Queensland of Chile’ – only helpful to those that have been to Queensland! -.  Arrving in the dark - after some interesting median driving by our very determined bus pilot – Dee was approached by the owner of a local hostel.   Speaking exclusively Spanish Dee inadvertently negiotated a private double room  for dorm room price and we headed off in the darkness to Hostel Sofia.   Despite my skepticism we arrived to a large room - including soaker tub, big screen TV with cable! – and comfy bed.  Shrewd negioation Dee!

After a long lie in and lazy breakfast we explored the bustling town.  Everything for the adrenline junkie is here – whitewater rafting, mountain biking, jetskiing, parasailing – and was a recent host to one of the Ironman 70.3 races.  It was also the finishing stage of the popular Trans Andes Mountain bike race.  Endurance athletes rejoice!  We elected on an ascent of Volcan Villarica, at 2900m one the regions highest peaks and a non-technical ascent.  Post climb, we would continue on a trek of the Villarica traverse taking around the volcano to the promise of a hot springs resort after 2 days. 

After catching up with the family and finding the cities best ice cream at Cassis we repacked before once again gorging on a tremendous dinner of shellfish.  Clams and mussels were on order, complete with wine and chocolate for ten bucks. 

A meal for a Queen

Hernan met us at the guide companies’ HQ early the next morning.  His English was limited and I suspected he was not the English speaking owner / guide we were promised when booking the day before.  Sure enough we were shuffled into a competitors bus with a team of orange suit wearing climbers – a blinding sight this time of the day – and drove to the ski center at the base of the climb.

Arriving at the base was a hilarious sight as more ‘teams’ of tourists in every neon colored suit imaginable trudged their way to the ski lift.  As always we elected to climb to the top of the chair lift while Hernan happily took the lift.  The rising sun offered stunning views of the valley, Lago  and we stopped often to snap photos and admire the peaceful morning.  We arrived at ‘base camp’ but no Hernan.  Another guide recognized us and pointed us out onto the glaciar. ‘Muy rapido, muy rapido ’ – you are fast! – he approvingly repeated as we set off on the snow, still crusty and frozen. 

We passed on orange – claden team getting detailed and emphatic instructions on how to use their ice ax from their guides.  Was the fact that our axes were still  neatly stowed on our packs a cause for concern?  Passing by we hoped a lesson would be in order when – or if – we met up with Hernan.  Trapped behind another team plodding across the track yet another guide led us to the next stopping point where for we finally saw Hernan again.  Even in his Spanish it was clear he liked the progress we had made.  The guides quickly divided their various groups by abilities and Hernan set off at a determined pace.  With one ‘main trail’ we quickly found ourselves on top of other groups, Hernan cajoling, pushing, or blazing new trail across the glacier to gain position. 

Dee contemplates the path ahead - and her next victims...

Stopping for a short breather on a ridgeline at 2200m we asked for the ice ax lesson and whether the crampons we'd been lugging in our bag would be needed seeing that most everyone else had them on.

 Guide - "You are experts, I think not necessary.”

GT -   “How about the ice ax?”

Guide - “You hold like this and dig in snow if falling.” 

Guess that was the lesson…

Looking below you could see the 100 or so climbers we had passed dotted like colorful ants on a bowl of sugar.  Above us were just 4 smaller groups of 8 – 10 climbers each and I could tell from the gleam in both Dee and Hernan’s eyes that we were going to race each of them to the top. 

We sped across the glacier at time diverting from the trail to pass another victim.  As we passed the second to last group on a steep section Hernan paused to ask; “How is the rythmn?” We got the point and both chuckled at how our bastardized Spanish must sound.

After just 3 hours we made the summit second to just one group – who started in the dark 3 hours before us! – and soaked in the incredible panorama.  Villarica is still an active Volcano with the last major eruption 40 years previously.  An noxic filled gas emitted from the small crater pushed us to ridgeline in search of the fresh breeze.  We had the summit essentially to ourselves with the other group content to eat lunch and complain of fatigue so we took advantage to take in the views of the Southern Andean range.  The impressive 4000m peak of Volcan Lanin in Argentina framed the southern ridge. 

Enjoying the views

We enjoyed lunch and a drink looking over Pucon’s valley and the National Park, trying see if we could find the trail we would walk later today on the slopes of the volcano.  With next groups lumbering to the top Hernan prepped us on the descent.  We first snapped on a contraption best describe as part – harness, part nylon / duct tape diaper over our pants , then attaching a crazy carpet to the waist strap.  The descent was essentially a 4km luge track with the ice ax for a brake.  Finally, Hernan was very emphatic about using the ax, lest it buckle and crash into our face.  

The start of the world's longest luge run.

Speeding down the mountain in our ‘Pampers’ was at times hair-raising but most of all a lot of fun as evidenced here.

We found ourselves back at the bus just 5 hours after we started – as opposed to the anticipated 8.  We traded Pampers for backpacks and headed off to the trailhead.