Main Trail?

We spent the 31^st catching up on some much needed rest and exploring options about how to leave.  The irony was not lost us that after 30hours of buses, ferries, and border crossing we should be planning our escape but the limited bus service necessitated it.

The hotel / hostel hosted a New Year’s celebration that night which we partook in.  It was by far the most English we had heard in over 6 weeks with Aussies, English, Dutch, Germans, and even some fellow Manitobans filled the place.  I struck up a conversation with a German cycle toured who actually was a based in Shilo in the mid 90’s and was close friends with a farming family just a couple of miles from our farm in Austin. 

You’ll not be surprised to hear that we had an ambition New Year’s Day planned with a trek around Paso de la Oveja in the Terra Del Fuego National Park.  Scheduled as a 2-day hike with camping we decided to break in the legs by completing it in one. 

Beginning the hike we were immediate struck by the distinct lack or signage and maintenance done on the trail.  While the route was fairly straightforward it would involve a fair amount of meandering to avoid various bogs and mud filled areas.  Having chose lightweight trail shoes may prove a challenge. 

With Dee blazing trail we quickly covered the checkpoints providing much time for picturesque views of the snow filled peaks and glaciers.  We had to make our way around several fallen trees that blocked the trail.  There was a noticeable lack of people – none – before running into a French hiker named Remy at the halfway point which we hit at 3.5 hours, well ahead of schedule.  The final climb to the Paso brought us out of the trees and onto a shale filled trail.  We ate lunch behind the protection of a rocky outcrop enjoying the waterfalls to the west and the mountain peaks to the east. 

Making the descent off the pass was loose and challenging before leaving the park’s border at a forest.  It quickly became clear that a recent windstorm had blown through as our trail continually disappeared block by felled trees.  With patience we were able to slowly move down the mountain.  20’ into the detour we happened across and very lost and very scared 20 something hiker from the U.S.  He was off track and had been hopelessly lost for the past two days, looking very worse for wear.  He proclaimed there was no route out leaving us with a decision to make, find the trail or turn back and hike for 6 hours to the trailhead.  Admittedly we were a little shaken but at the same time confident we could find the trail.

The 3 of us decided to press on and the lost hiker reluctantly followed.  To us the trail still looked ‘reasonably’ clear and we knew it would not be far to its terminus.  We were not surprised but the nonetheless relieved however when we found the trailhead 45’ later.  A final walk across a meadow and careful detour around a ranch house guarded by a very big dog completed a great first day in the mountains. 

Lucas, the hotel manager was shocked to see us walk into just 7 hours after we left and quickly began to advise on the other ‘must do’ hikes in the park.