We bid farewell to BsAs on Boxing Day afternoon but not without a little drama. Seems the owner of the apartment was unaware of our departure plans for 3pm and arrived in a panic @ 2:30pm for checkout. At this point both Dee and I had given up on making our all-night bus that would take us to Puerto Madryn some 1500km south, but after shoving our 500$ deposit in our hands and our bags into his micro car, we sped for Retiro bus station.
Turns out he is a tour guide by trade, speaking more than passable English, and was no doubt readying himself to race in the upcoming Dakar rally leaving BsAs in 4 days as we weaved through traffic, showing the same indifference to red lights as the rest of the Portenos.
During the hair-raising trip he played tour guide, pointing out the numerous landmarks on our route in passable English while honking at fellow drivers and continuing a heated exchange with his wife in the front seat, presumably about who to hire to manage their apartment in the future... As this was our first trip in a car since our hair-raising drive from the airport a month ago we were both equally entertained and terrified as we sped through the streets we had walked numerous times.
We arrived at Retiro at 2:54, which was 'plenty of time', according to host! Making a frantic run across the station we found our bus waiting and were checked in and seated by the time the bus pulled out exactly 6' later.
As the bus rolled out of town we sighed and settled into seats, four weeks had flown by so quickly. We admitted to mixed emotions, excitement to continue our adventure and sad to leave the homey comforts we enjoyed. After five months of sleeping in family and friends’ guest rooms, tents, and the occasional 5 star hotel room – thanks again Donald! – We had really grown comfortable with our apartment and neighborhood. We were on first name basis at the local café, fruitdeteria, and ice cream stand and could actually negotiate the local grocery store for the staples in record time. Selfishly, I enjoyed Dee’s home cooking and baking she was eager to practice.
In no particular order - other than the first - we jotted down the things we’ll miss:
- Dee’s baking
- Great cafes at every corner (the instant on the bus won’t do!)
- Scouring the fruit/vegetable stand loaded with fresh produce daily
- The quaint tree, lined streets near our apartment
- Our local ice cream shop whose owner was as quick to practice his broken English and we were our Spanish. Needless to say some great interactions.
- People watching over an afternoon lunch or late night dinner.
- Our instructor Leticia’s patient smile, and enthusiastic lessons.
- Sunday morning run on deserted city streets.
- Searching through the clutter at the San Telmo market or nearby shops.
- The warm summer nights.
- The morning ritual of diligently cleaning the front steps of the apartment block by the managers.
- The numerous police officer and security guards around the newspaper kiosks, cafés, and bookstores
And those we were happy to leave behind.
- BA drivers - WTF! Total disregard for themselves, fellow drivers, and most of all pedestrians
- The appalling condition of the sidewalks. Numerous cracks, crevasses make strolling the streets a contact sport.
- CaCa – If you own a dog, pick up the poop. Not a hard concept…
- Garbage – A recycling program that consists of homeless people tearing open every bag of garbage taking the valuables and leaving the rest scattered in the gutter.
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