Touchdown YVR

Dee clutched my hand tightly as we made a rough landing on a wet night at Vancouver's International Airport.  I made light of it thinking back to the close calls on our bicycles, buses, and hikes we've had.

Bogota By Bike

Dee doing battle with Bogota traffic

It would be fair to say we were a little apprehensive about the final stop of our South American tour in Colombia’s capital, given its infamous history. A 90-minute flight brought us from the steamy Caribbean coast to bustling Bogota with its nine million souls.  Jammed against the Andes range at 8000ft we arrived in the early evening to rain and cool temperatures, quickly donning our pants, sweaters, and rain jackets. 

Everything, and the Kitchen Sink

No  me gusta?  Don't worry there's plenty more.

Question:  Huaraz, Peru is dirty little blue collar city with an incredible back drop of the Cordillera Blanca, the world's highest mountains outside of the Himalayas.  90000 residents and plus a few tourists.  How many cabs would you think the city would need?

Feeling the heat

Parque National Tayrona

As we sit back and enjoy yet another spectacular (thud!) sunset on the Caribbean coast - on a May 24th no less - we toast our good fortune on so many levels.

Best of Cartagena

Finally - High Speed Internet - Enjoy some pictures from this amazing city.

Best Of Cartagena

Colorful Cartagena

Ceiling Fan 6 - Garth 0.  As in a quick trip to the doctor to get six stitches to close two nasty gashes in my forearm after a run-in with an angry and low ceiling fan.  After nearly seven months throughout SA with only a few blisters we've finished with this memorable altercation.

Galapagos in a word - GO!

We've expounded paragraphs of text trying to express the virtues of Galapagos but today we'll sum up our  day at the beach.

Update from Galapagos

If we had to sum our eight days in Galapagos so far it would be - Get here! - Unbelievable wildlife, scenery, and experiences.  Its too bad we couldn´t have so many superlatives for the communication services...  Will post some pictures when we have a chance.  For now read on!

Galapagos Files

“Ray!  Ray!” Gino shouted as our zodiacs closed along the bay.  Snorkel gear on, we rolled into the warm, azure water with a splash, quickly swimming towards Gino, frantically waving as he bobbed around.  Poking our heads below the surface revealed a 3.5 m Manta Ray gracefully gliding below as those with cameras took aim.  He was an imposing figure making a short flick of his wings with the meter long tail waving effortlessly behind.  It seemed that day four in Galapagos was going to be another great day.

Majestic 31/2m Manta Ray

Escaping Banos

After another interesting directo bus on Easter Sunday – 340km, 9 hours, 4 sightings of no less than pigs on road spits, and one horrendous accident on the Pan-American highway as we approached the Ecuadorian Andes ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ – bought us to the tiny town of Banos in Central Ecuador.  So named after the endless thermal baths that dot the valley, it is considered the adventure city of Ecuador littered with adventure shops touting bungee jumps, volcano climbs, and dune buggy rentals (!) on literally every corner.  Our goal was to have a little RnR – we know what have we doing for the last year! – while I actually prepped for a job interview.  

Election time Peru style

Our entire month in Peru coincided with run up to the National Elections their.  We took more than a passing interest given the passion the Peruvian’s had for their civic duty and the parallel to May’s federal election in Canada.  

Directo? Siii, Directo!

The cab swerved to dodged in an ‘S’ turn to simultaneously avoid the scooter and the three pedestrians, themselves darting for the curb to avoid being a hood ornament.  Driving head on to the border control, our cabbie enthusiastically pointed to the CIFA bus we had spent the afternoon chasing for 200km across the northern tip of Peru.

Life’s a Beach

Five weeks of travel above 10000 feet can leave a couple of travelers a little breathless and even a little more chilled.  We relished the opportunity to explore Peru’s northern coast for some waves, sand, and warm weather.

Welcome to Quito - Your valuables please

We just got off yet another ´direct´ bus in Quito.  Seemed fairly routine til we found out the other Gringos on the bus got their bags slashed and valuables stolen.  I guess we´ve been warned...

Cycling In the Cordillera Blanca and Negra!

Nothing like testing your skills on the mountain bike, after a 9 year lay-off, at 4000m. I never thought I would hear myself say this but "the climbing sucks". For the first time in my life I preferred the technical, downhill single track to the climb.

Magnificent Machupicchu

"Life is not measured by the breaths you take, it is measured by the moments that take your breath away."

Peering down upon the Lost City of the Incas yesterday as the sun shone and the clouds cleared was one of those magic moments in our lives.  It was an incredible finish to our four day trek of the Inca Trail to the city at the centre of their empire.

"You signed up for a trek and that's what we're gonna do" - Inca Trail

We elected to travel by foot to Machupicchu via the famous Inca Trail - a four day hike in and around the mountains, passing numerous ruins along the way to the big prize.  We are still unsure of the distance as we consulted at least eight maps with eight different distances.  At least the trail was well marked!

Hey amigo, massage, massage!

We finally gave in today after two weeks of being accosted by the endless stream of young girls offering massages throughout our ten days in Cuzco.  They litter the cobble-stoned streets offering massage any way you like it - Thai, Stone, Swedish - and Dee finally ran out of excuses to give them.  It was a relaxing hour on the table as they worked out the kinks of a four day bike ride followed by our hike to Machupicchu the previous four days.

Breakfast with a view - Huaraz, Peru

Mt. Huascaran (6768m) Peru's Highest Peak

Breakfast should always be so idyllic.  The view above from our fourth floor balcony at Olaza's B&B in Huaraz, Peru is peace, grandeur, and relaxation personified.  We've been on the run since arriving in Peru almost a month ago.  Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, the Inca Trail to Machupicchu, and capped off with an epic four day trek among the snow capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.  More on all that in the coming days, I promise!

Greasing the wheels of commerce

There’s no way around it, we getting screwed.  We’ve arrived at the bus terminal at 7:50am, just 10 minutes ahead of our proposed bus to Cuzco.  Our hotel manager has passed off to another short, very serious man who is explaining to Dee that there is no room on the bus until the evening; that is unless we want to take another – presumably inferior – bus. 

I hope you dance!

A band of 5 teens playing guitar, mini-banjo, and flutes provided the music and when they started so did the dancing.  Hepolito and Deonicia quickly bead a track over to us and we were dancing  Performing at times a quasi jig, at others a conga line of 40 people it was a tiring pace.  While Hepolito soon made his way to the sidelines, Deonicia  (and us) did not miss a song.  Her and I made an improbable dance partnership and our 2.5-foot differential brought many laughs from the lookers on.

The long and short of it at the Amantani Pena!

Random Musings from Bolivia

Humble apologizes blog followers.  Our three weeks here in Bolivia have been ‘technology challenged’!  We’ve rarely found proficient Internet services and when we have our time has usually been spent reconnecting with Mom+Dad, Ma, and Gram via Skype – which has been a godsend really – leaving little time to post!  Many pictures taken of this amazing place but trying to upload to the blog is nigh impossible.  We hear things are better in Peru and hope to share them then.  In the meanwhile some random thoughts about this amazing country…

Breathless in Bolivia

I am not sure what is going to happen first - my eyeballs bursting or my head splitting in two.  We are on a snow-capped ridge at 5600m trudging carefully along a trail blazed by our guide Edwin.  We’ve elected to add a little ‘hiking’ to our tour of Southwest Bolivia's antiplano (plateau) and today’s challenge is an ascent of the 6008m Volcan Uturuncu the region’s highest.

Mendoza

The wine!  Our ten days in Mendoza and area was chance to sample from Argentina’s prized wine region.  The sparse valley and foothills butting up against the vast Andes range provided jaw-dropping scenery albeit tainted by clouds that lingered through out the visit.  We had numerous adventures and anecdotes chronicled below.

Breathless in Bolivia

We are presently in La Paz, Bolivia (altitude 3700m).  The headaches and lethargy of high altitude living has finally subsided after ten days and we have really enjoyed this colorful city, the world's highest capital.  The city is shaped like a giant soup bowl with building clinging to each mountain side at impossible angles.  Unfortunately, the internet is slowing our blogging progress so more on each at a later date.

Searching for sleep in the land of the sleepless

The fireworks rocked us from our peaceful slumber @ 4:26am on a Friday morning.  We thought a restful night of camping to end our week long road-trip  was in order;  we thought wrong.  While we’d never find out why we were treated to two minutes of fireworks, followed by dogs barking continuously for another 30 minutes, we’ve chalked it up to life in Argentina.

Reflections - Farewell to Patagonia

Lago Frey - Nahuel Huapi Traverse - Bariloche, Argentina

We leave Patagonia as we came, hurtling down an impossibly straight stretch blacktop on a luxury motor-coach.  A poor Hollywood film dubbed in Spanish – with Spanish subtitles interestly – blaring inaudibly across the bus.  Endless miles of shrubs and brown earth fill the landscape in both directions while the sun beats down from a blue sky.  And the wind?  Well, it blows today like most other days, steady and unrelenting…

Villarica Traverse

Room with a view 

The word ‘resort’ was a bit of a misnomer when we arrived.  An elderly couple manned the small kiosk that served as store, check-in, and laundry service.  We decided to have a walk-about before dropping 200$ on the all-inclusive experience.  A maid showed us the room – circa 1950’s décor – and a short walk to the springs reveal a tired old pool with missing tiles and a temperature of about 88F, hardly what we were hoping for.  We were 30k from Pucon and nowhere near a bus stop.  Now what do we do?

‘How is the rythmn’ - Volcan Villarica

From the Summit of Volcan Villarica

Stopping for a short breather on a ridgeline at 2200m we asked our guide Hernan for the ice ax lesson and whether the crampons we'd been lugging in our bag would be needed, seeing that most everyone else had them on.
GT - "Should we put on the crampon now?"

 Guide - "You are experts, I think not necessary.”

GT -   “How about the ice ax that I've never used before?”

Guide - “You hold like this and dig in snow if falling.” 

Guess that was the lesson…

Two wheeled satisfaction

"Are you really going to?" as we quickly closed the gap on a lone orange and blue spandex clad racer near the summit of a one km hill.  His laboured pedal stroke was in direct contrast to Dee's determined spinning as she hurtled her rental rig towards him.  We had somehow found ourselves 'racing' in the last 20km of Chile's first Cup race of the season.  Despite a 2.5 month absence from the bike, competitive instincts were taking over and the Rabobank wannabe would be Dee's first victim...

Banos De Caulle

After catching the bus from Puerto Varus to Osorno we made our way down the main drag and street side vendors selling the typical: knitwear, jewelry, useless knick-knacks, fresh fruit and veggies…grapes and corn seemed to be the big seller today. With vague directions we found a group of minivans with various names in the corner of the window and eventually were directed around another building with a lone bus heading to Anticura/Agua Caliente.

The 1 ½  hour ride turned into 2 1/2 hours after making many road side stops to stuff more people and bags on board -no man, women, child or backpacker was to be left behind- the rickety bus. After delivering everyone except the two of us and three Americans doing the same hike, we arrived at a restaurant/farm/hike registration office. Apparently, it pays to have the trail head on your property with the only access to the National Park. We signed in and paid our 34$ entrance fee and the promised map was a point in the right direction; on a positive note we were able to store our two garbage bags of extra luggage.  Trying to be equipped for every adventure possible – trekking, biking, tango, and wine tasting – has meant the backpacks are bursting at the seams!

Lightened packs strapped on we headed across a pasture filled with cows and even some wild boars before ascending steeply with an anticipated 1000m gain over the course of 11km.  The first 90’ were spent in clouds offering few views but ideal climbing conditions.  The route was predominantly through deep gullies, often in excess of six feet, no need for route markings here! 

After a well deserved lunch break the real climbing began as the sun burst through the trees.  It was a butt screaming hour of steep climbing all the while batting away the annoying tabano (South American horseflies) that can plague the region during their summer.  It was too steep to even swing an arm at the pesky critters so Dee’s response was to pick up the pace as we surged by puffing and astonished hikers that we quickly left in our wake. 

We arrived at the picturesque El Caulle campsite under blue skies and panoramic views of the numerous volcanoes in the region.  We scouted out a campsite quickly as the tabanos set down on us in force.  The tent couldn’t have been assembled quicker as Dee dove for the tent and I tossed her bag in behind.  Despite that there was no few than a dozen tabanos joining Dee inside.  A few uncomfortable minutes of swatting later we were able to rest among the corpses and incessant buzz of others frantically trying to enter our tent.

Around 5pm we reluctantly decided to brave the bugs and climb to the crater rim of Volcan Puyehue.  Without packs we flew up the loose scree reaching the 2300m summit in just over an hour with only a couple of tabanos following us up.

From the peak of V. Puyehue

The views under the beautiful blue sky was spectacular!  The 360 views offered no fewer than 4 volcano summits and numerous high level lakes spanning into Argentina.  The thick, grey cloud line at 1300m shut out the valley further accentuating the peaks.  Looking to the north we could clearly see tomorrows hike and the massive lava flows from the last eruption in 1960.

We lingered for a while enjoying the views and lack of tabanos before descending.   Seeing a long snowfield we opted for a bum sled ride down, feeling like 10 year-olds again.  Arriving at the tent we caught with Navimag friends Luke and Emma before taking in dinner and yet another glorious sunset.

Day 2 – El Caulle – Los Banos

Under another cloudless, pleasant morning we continued to climb, grateful for the breeze which kept the tabanos at bay.  Crossing some 23 snowfields as we skirted along the volcano ridge we remarked at the stark beauty of the walk. 

After reaching a rather auspicious trail – sign lying prone on the ground, we entered the last third of the hike which was not unlike being on the moon.  Completely devoid of any vegetation for miles, the hard packed gravel spanned in all directions creating a desolate scene.  Quite different from any hiking we had done to date.

Now where?

Arriving a rushing stream we quickly set up tent as the tabanos had again found us.  Before eating we ventured into the hot springs only to find them glacier cold!  We stopped too soon and found ourselves repacking and grumpily trudging another 20’ to camp making a couple of shoe-less stream crossings then camp.  Finding what we thought was a isolated spot we relaxed the late afternoon hoping for a continuation of sunny, but breezy weather. 

Before we could venture into the hotsprings however, our peaceful campsite was invaded by another nuisance – a dozen young Isrealis who though it appropriate to set up 20 feet from the tent and regale us in off key renditions of their favorite top 40 hits.  They filled the springs as well, which was no loss as they were small, shallow and had a lingering, acrid sulphur odor so we ventured in only to tell the tale.  No exactly how Dee envisioned enjoying her bottle of red she had totted for 2 days. 

On cue the tabanos departed near sunset and we found a quiet, windless spot to enjoy dinner and the vino. The wind kicked up overnight, pushing low cloud and light rain on us as we started our return hike.  With the change in weather holding the tabanos at bay we tread carefully, checking often for route markers hidden in the fog.  With rain continuing to fall, we elected to hike out combining two days in one knee popping descent. 

After a thorough cleaning in the private washroom at the surprising grand and rustic lodge at the base of the trail, we rewarded ourselves with a lunch of empanadas – quickly becoming Garth’s staple - and hamburgers.  While we contemplated reorganizing / repacking our bags – our least favorite chore of the trip – our bus arrived 90’ early and we were shuffled on quickly, now looking a little less like backpackers and more like the homeless as we carted an addition two plastic garbage bags with us.

The bus rolled into the next stop quickly, only to announce that we would be waiting here for 90’ minutes.  A chance to repack afte rall!  The rain fell harder than we had seen since Iguazu and we counted our blessings to not be huddled in the tent up the trail.

Returning to the indistinct town of Osorno we elected to push on to our next stop in the resort of Pucon.  We found a bit of food including a well deserved ice cream cone.  Garth even found a friend content to lie on his feet and beg for licks.

Going against the flow - All Aboard the NaviMag

I headed down to the local high school that was housing hundreds of evacuees from the park.  Walking into the middle school that was now a Red Cross evacuation center was a surreal experience and underscored the emergency effort that we were the focus of.  Women young and old wearing white synthetic vests with the Red Cross scurried about serving coffee and tea as well as the remains of breakfast for those that were hungry.  I walked slowly hoping to find a familiar face and / or English speaker. 

Murphy's Law

Murphy’s Law

By all accounts it was a shitty day, the first total loss of our trip.  We had other bad days, the rainout on Big Sur, the complete fly failure in Washington, but today was a day of bad timing and luck snowballing repeatedly.

Update - Pucon, Chile

The blog is suffering given the numerous distractions the Chilean lakes district offers.  We've been biking, hiking, and doing our fair share of eating incredible seafood and fresh local produce.  Enjoy the latest pictures from our 180km bike ride around beautiful Lago Llanquihue and belated blog updates.

Lago Llanquihue

Give Patagonia a chance... Trekking Torres Del Paine

"Misery!" my Mom exclaimed when we described our upcoming week of activity in Southern Patagonia.  Hiking the 'circuit' of the Torres Del Paine National Park was the first 'unsupported' hike of this length that we had done.  Eight days of food, clothing, a house - well an extremely cramped rental tent -, frankly we were a little apprehensive ourselves as we listened in on a chat our hotel hosted on the eve of our trek.

We wandered down to the waterfront to have our final pre-trek meal at Los Pioneros restaurant.  It was a  massive feed of incredible seafood soup filled with mussels, scallops and clams combined with a huge filet of sumptuous salmon.  The  harbor and Andes Mountains framed our window-front table.  We contemplated why we'd want to leave this for the rigours of trekking.

Stowing away

We made our escape from Southern Patagonia on the NaviMag ferry 'cruise'.  While not exactly cruise-ship luxury it permitted us a beautiful ride through numerous fjords and close up views of the massive 13000 sq km Patagonia ice field.  More importantly we were allowed to flee our captors - over dramatizing to be sure - in Puerto Natales.

As expected we made fast friends on the boat, enjoyed many siestas, survived one wavy night on the high seas of the Pacific, and were entertained by far too many games of NaviMag bingo on our final evening.  1000km and 4 days later we found ourselves in the charming town of Puerto Varas in the Lakes District.  By definition still in Patagonia, but a world away.

We will stuff ourselves full of fresh seafood and colorful fruits and vegetables in the coming days.

Enjoy the pictures

Escaping Puerto Natales

Best of Torres Del Paine

Enjoy the photos of this incredible trek!

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Best of Torres Del Paine

This is getting interesting...

Hola Chicos,

We find ourselves in a middle of a pretty nasty strike involving numerous unions -  angry groups of like minded people anyway - in the Southwestern corner of the Chilean Patagonia.  We are safe, fed, and watered although the wine selection is lacking.

Preparing for the evacuation of the Turistas

With all roads blocked in and out of the city of Puerto Natales for the foreseeable future we have elected to hopefully board a cargo ship 'cruise' in the hopes of moving ourselves north of the conflict, taking in some great scenery at the same time.  We will post a summary of our amazing trek in the Torres Del Paine park shortly but in the meanwhile enjoy the pictoral essay.

Terra del Fuego Part 2

Terra del Fuego N.P.

Terra del Fuego National Park

Terra Del Fuego N.P.

The Road to Ushuaia

Ushuaia

Punta Tombo - March of the Penguins

Punta Tombo - Penguins

Peninsula Valdez Pictures

Penisula Valdez

Update - Puerto Natales, Chile

Well another 15 hours bus ride has brought us to the heart of Patagonian trekking at Torres del Paine National Park.  This one included 2 border crossings, 1 ferry crossing, and too many police checkpoints.  We finished it off hitching in the back of a truck for the final 7k when when our bus happened across a road-side tire fire protest our second in a week.  They do love there protest down here!

We depart on a nine trek tomorrow and look forward to the incredible views this park has to offer.

Will try and get some pictures posted soon!

Stunning Cerro Guanaco

We entered the National Park proper on the 2^nd to do two day hikes and camp at Lago Roca that borders with Chile.  The RN3 road we had followed from Buenos Aires made its ended some 3100km later and we appreciate the significance off covering every km.  

Despite a forecast for rain all week, we were blessed sunny skies and warm (+22C) temperature as we made the 4 hours ascent of the 1000m peak.  Yet another muddy patch lasting up a km confirmed we would be buying proper boots for our hiking in Chile at the end of the week.

Main Trail?

We spent the 31^st catching up on some much needed rest and exploring options about how to leave.  The irony was not lost us that after 30hours of buses, ferries, and border crossing we should be planning our escape but the limited bus service necessitated it.

Road Trip

Our bus made it only 50k but succumbing electrical failure at the depot in Trelew.  2 hours later the replacement bus showed and we continued the trip that would bring us overnight to Rio Gallegos and on-ward to Ushuaia.  The landscape continued the same under a beautiful that stretch in every direction into the late evening as we crossed the 49^th parallel – South – just after the solstice.

Puerto Madryn

We awoke with a jolt at 5:30 am.  Still on the bus and continuing to head south.  The sunrise was magnificent as it opened over the barren Patagonia landscape.  We have read much about Patagonia; in guidebooks, the Internet, of course the mandatory South American adventure novel, The Motorcycle Diaries by Che Guevara.  However our Canadian upbringing meant seeing vast, wide-open space were not new. The rising sun knifed through the morning cloud onto to the low shrubs of the gently rolling landscape.  As Dee peacefully slept we stopped briefly at Las Grutas to exchange passengers before making the final push to Puerto Madryn.  The steepe/desert landscape was reminiscent of the drive in Palliser Triangle of Southwest Saskatchewan - vaguely familiar yet a world away. 

As the bus swayed to and fro I was reminded of our cycling friends Liz and Phil warning us that the wind was ever-present, as permanent as the shrubs, rocks, and barbwire fences. We arrived in Puerto Madryn mid-morning and relatively refreshed.  A short walk brought us onto the city’s ocean front boulevard in this desert city by the sea.  Truly an amazing contrast and the warm, fresh ocean breeze put a smile on both our faces as we enjoyed a snack.

We had a big agenda in the next 48 hours.  Renting a car far too small for our long-limbs we sped out of town continuing to head south for Punta Tombo, 180km South.  Our destination was the coastal Magellan Penguins reserve that is home to a ½ million - 25% of the world’s penguin population - birds.   Our first Argentina road experience was pretty much as expected – fast and furious – as we skipped by Trelew before leaving the aggressive drivers along the RN3 for the road to return us to the coast.   Smooth pavement gave way to dusty, washboard gravel for the final 35km.  We were both entertained by the numerous road signs warning drivers of the pitfalls of rural driving.  Clearly not intended for two Canadian country kids!

A short walk over a hill from the reserve parking lot unfolded a tremendous scene.  Penguins filled the hills from here to the water a ½ mile away.  The walking path brought you as close as you wanted as the birds waddled their way from the beach to their dens.  We witnessed a far too intimate mating scene while neighbors looked on approvingly.  When not clumsily waddling along, the birds steadied themselves into the breeze – Patagonia remembers – content to let the tourist get their pictures.  It was an amazing sight. 

We made a detour into the small beach-town of Playa Union where I happened across a great deal of fresh cherries at 3pesos (.75$) / kg only to find out I needed to by 30kg to get the deal.  Dee felt that might a few too many for the next bus trip…

We retraced our way back to Puerto Madryn, continuing North to Peninsula Valdez National Park. 

After being fleeced once again at the park entrance where foreigners pay four x as much as Argentine nationals and 15x locals.  Plus an additional change b/c the car was a rental we flew down the barren highway to Puerto Pyramids, the areas only town. 

After a day of driving (500km) in Patagonia we got a sense of how vast and barren it is.  While people often comment on how desolate the prairie landscape is, by comparison to here it is an oasis.  In the northern portion it seems like little grows over a meter in height.  We’ve yet to see the herds of sheep and cattle grazing described in our guidebooks rather just miles and miles of nothing but tremendous blue skies and hot weather.

The nearly empty tiny town of Puerto Pyramide posing our first view of big sky sunset in over a month.  The black sand beach was incredible and deserted allowing us to enjoy fading light in solitude.  Dee rated it a top 5 for this trip.  We’ll let her review the archives before reaching a final verdict.

The bright sun chased us out of tent early and after debating the merits of a whale tour by boat before deciding against it as the migration season had come to a close.  We repacked our super-compact rental and put it to the gravel to re-test its mettle. 

We viewed dozens of Sea lions from our first stop at Punta Loboto including numerous newborns.  Watching them shout and play-fight kept us entertained in the warm morning sun. 

Moving to Punta Norte we re-joined the tourist route being run down by numerous tour buses filled with tourists making the daylong sprint from Puerto Madryn.  Punta Norte did live up to its billing as a major elephant seal nesting ground.  The sea-lions and giant seals seemed to live in harmony on the beach and we laughed at the now relative grace of the sea-lions in relation to elephant seals dragging themselves along the sand.

We felt a bit of Bermuda here as the viewing points were filled with English voices and celebrity cruises golf shirts as it turns out Puerto Madryn and the Peninsula is a major stop on the South America cruise circuit.  No wonder...

We made a small – and slightly illegal – stop at an incredible look off along a 30mile stretch of crystal clear blue ocean near Caleta Valdez.  Billions of small stones and pebbles perfectly smoothed and ovalized from the relentless wind and waves.  The road sliced through numerous large estancias (ranches) sporadically filled with sheep and Guanaco (llama).  While the sun continued to beat down brightly the wind gusted small whirlwinds on the gravel road. 

Dee put her eagle eyes to work spotting both a Right Whale and pod of Dolphin in the distance getting many thanks for the fellow on-lookers at the Caleta Valdez viewpoint.  In close proximity were more penguins and sea lions playfully exploring in the water.

After an ill-fated attempt to enter the exclusive Punta Delgada in the South – East corner we made a very dusty and bumpy expedition to Playa Paradelas near Puerto Pyramide.  It started as an unfateful walk to a rocky point 1k from the beach.  Dee’s hat blew into the water – by I managed to hang over the cliff and retrieve with my toe – as wind picked up to a stiff 50k.  As we looked out on the waves crashing the cliffs Dee again spotted a whale – or was it two? – Far off in the distance.  Confirmation came as the whaleboat nearby sped towards it.  Almost on cue to Dee’s out loud wish the whales would come closer the whales did.  First looping near the beach before making a slow beeline towards us getting as close as 10m.  It was a mother and calf, which we were told later, was rare for this time of year.  We felt very privileged.  We dreamily recounted the story numerous times as we contemplated another gorgeous sunset. 

A sunrise run up and down the deserted beach kicked off our next morning.  Breakfast consisted of little more than a piece of fruit as there is little going on in the sleepy little town until the tour buses show up at 10am.

We made a quick trip back into the pretty beach city of Puerto Madryn finding time, to take a stroll on the beach.  We had to grab a quick lunch and drink to make our 1:30 bus only to find it was delayed an hour.  It was a good opportunity to reflect on the busy last two days.  

On to Patagonia

Our new adventure was almost over before it began.

We made it down the highway just 15' before we came across a tire - burning protest taking place on the major thoroughfare south out of BsAs.  To us it looked quite serious but apparently these protests are treated as more of an inconvenience here.  

While quietly planning an exit strategy if the bus was attacked, we were entertained by the exit strategies the cars used.  Cars were 3 abreast coming down the on ramp as the police engrossed themselves in casual discussion on the roadside.  Were they not aware that there was a very un-peaceful protest 300m meters up the road?    This was not the first time we experienced this apathy.   A seemingly huge police presence but little in the way of police enforcement…  This presence extended to their part time gigs at the numerous kiosks, bookstores, and even Starbucks in the city.  Still not too far removed from their military roots.  On the positive our bus driver recognized the need to exit and managed to skillfully guide the double - decker bus through some very narrow side streets to by pass the mess.  Hopefully all the mirrors were still intact.

We set into a review of Spanish as we left the concrete jungle behind and entered the Pampas.  Perched on the top deck of our bus we drank in the bright sun as the prairie unfolded around us.  A movie with Spanish subtitles provided additional practice and the hours snuck away.  

I felt especially nostalgic, as our drive was similar to speeding down the Trans-Canada from Brandon to Winnipeg in late August.  Dust filled the horizon from dozens of combines bringing in what appeared to be a good harvest.  Dad would have enjoyed the scene at one roundabout where combines filled all four fields surrounding the road. 

Following an entertaining ‘bus bingo’ where we were challenged to quickly recall our Spanish numbers we tucked in to a lovely roast beef dinner – yes on the bus! -  as we passed a huge brushfire that filled the sky and lapped up dangerously close to the roadside.  Amazingly numerous people stopped by the roadside to take in the view with their cars parked 20’ from the flames.

We settled into a restful nights sleep as our bus speed into the Patagonia along the RN3.  We will follow this highway all the way to Ushuaia at the tip of Argentina. 

Adios BsAs

We bid farewell to BsAs on Boxing Day afternoon but not without a little drama.  Seems the owner of the apartment was unaware of our departure plans for 3pm and arrived in a panic @ 2:30pm for checkout.  At this point both Dee and I had given up on making our all-night bus that would take us to Puerto Madryn some 1500km south, but after shoving our 500$ deposit in our hands and our bags into his micro car, we sped for Retiro bus station.

Turns out he is a tour guide by trade, speaking more than passable English, and was no doubt readying himself to race in the upcoming Dakar rally leaving BsAs in 4 days as we weaved through traffic, showing the same indifference to red lights as the rest of the Portenos.

During the hair-raising trip he played tour guide, pointing out the numerous landmarks on our route in passable English while honking at fellow drivers and continuing a heated exchange with his wife in the front seat, presumably about who to hire to manage their apartment in the future...  As this was our first trip in a car since our hair-raising drive from the airport a month ago we were both equally entertained and terrified as we sped through the streets we had walked numerous times.

We arrived at Retiro at 2:54, which was 'plenty of time', according to host!  Making a frantic run across the station we found our bus waiting and were checked in and seated by the time the bus pulled out exactly 6' later.

As the bus rolled out of town we sighed and settled into seats, four weeks had flown by so quickly.  We admitted to mixed emotions, excitement to continue our adventure and sad to leave the homey comforts we enjoyed.  After five months of sleeping in family and friends’ guest rooms, tents, and the occasional 5 star hotel room – thanks again Donald! – We had really grown comfortable with our apartment and neighborhood.  We were on first name basis at the local café, fruitdeteria, and ice cream stand and could actually negotiate the local grocery store for the staples in record time.  Selfishly, I enjoyed Dee’s home cooking and baking she was eager to practice.

In no particular order - other than the first - we jotted down the things we’ll miss:

-       Dee’s baking

-       Great cafes at every corner (the instant on the bus won’t do!)

-       Scouring the fruit/vegetable stand loaded with fresh produce daily

-       The quaint tree, lined streets near our apartment

-       Our local ice cream shop whose owner was as quick to practice his broken English and we were our Spanish.  Needless to say some great interactions.

-       People watching over an afternoon lunch or late night dinner.

-       Our instructor Leticia’s patient smile, and enthusiastic lessons.

-       Sunday morning run on deserted city streets.

-       Searching through the clutter at the San Telmo market or nearby shops.

-       The warm summer nights.

-       The morning ritual of diligently cleaning the front steps of the apartment block by the managers.

-       The numerous police officer and security guards around the newspaper kiosks, cafés, and bookstores

And those we were happy to leave behind.

-       BA drivers  - WTF!  Total disregard for themselves, fellow drivers, and most of all pedestrians

-       The appalling condition of the sidewalks.  Numerous cracks, crevasses make strolling the streets a contact sport.

-       CaCa – If you own a dog, pick up the poop.  Not a hard concept…

-       Garbage – A recycling program that consists of homeless people tearing open every bag of garbage taking the valuables and leaving the rest scattered in the gutter.