After catching the bus from Puerto Varus to Osorno we made our way down the main drag and street side vendors selling the typical: knitwear, jewelry, useless knick-knacks, fresh fruit and veggies…grapes and corn seemed to be the big seller today. With vague directions we found a group of minivans with various names in the corner of the window and eventually were directed around another building with a lone bus heading to Anticura/Agua Caliente.
The 1 ½ hour ride turned into 2 1/2 hours after making many road side stops to stuff more people and bags on board -no man, women, child or backpacker was to be left behind- the rickety bus. After delivering everyone except the two of us and three Americans doing the same hike, we arrived at a restaurant/farm/hike registration office. Apparently, it pays to have the trail head on your property with the only access to the National Park. We signed in and paid our 34$ entrance fee and the promised map was a point in the right direction; on a positive note we were able to store our two garbage bags of extra luggage. Trying to be equipped for every adventure possible – trekking, biking, tango, and wine tasting – has meant the backpacks are bursting at the seams!
Lightened packs strapped on we headed across a pasture filled with cows and even some wild boars before ascending steeply with an anticipated 1000m gain over the course of 11km. The first 90’ were spent in clouds offering few views but ideal climbing conditions. The route was predominantly through deep gullies, often in excess of six feet, no need for route markings here!
After a well deserved lunch break the real climbing began as the sun burst through the trees. It was a butt screaming hour of steep climbing all the while batting away the annoying tabano (South American horseflies) that can plague the region during their summer. It was too steep to even swing an arm at the pesky critters so Dee’s response was to pick up the pace as we surged by puffing and astonished hikers that we quickly left in our wake.
We arrived at the picturesque El Caulle campsite under blue skies and panoramic views of the numerous volcanoes in the region. We scouted out a campsite quickly as the tabanos set down on us in force. The tent couldn’t have been assembled quicker as Dee dove for the tent and I tossed her bag in behind. Despite that there was no few than a dozen tabanos joining Dee inside. A few uncomfortable minutes of swatting later we were able to rest among the corpses and incessant buzz of others frantically trying to enter our tent.
Around 5pm we reluctantly decided to brave the bugs and climb to the crater rim of Volcan Puyehue. Without packs we flew up the loose scree reaching the 2300m summit in just over an hour with only a couple of tabanos following us up.
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From the peak of V. Puyehue
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The views under the beautiful blue sky was spectacular! The 360 views offered no fewer than 4 volcano summits and numerous high level lakes spanning into Argentina. The thick, grey cloud line at 1300m shut out the valley further accentuating the peaks. Looking to the north we could clearly see tomorrows hike and the massive lava flows from the last eruption in 1960.
We lingered for a while enjoying the views and lack of tabanos before descending. Seeing a long snowfield we opted for a bum sled ride down, feeling like 10 year-olds again. Arriving at the tent we caught with Navimag friends Luke and Emma before taking in dinner and yet another glorious sunset.
Day 2 – El Caulle – Los Banos
Under another cloudless, pleasant morning we continued to climb, grateful for the breeze which kept the tabanos at bay. Crossing some 23 snowfields as we skirted along the volcano ridge we remarked at the stark beauty of the walk.
After reaching a rather auspicious trail – sign lying prone on the ground, we entered the last third of the hike which was not unlike being on the moon. Completely devoid of any vegetation for miles, the hard packed gravel spanned in all directions creating a desolate scene. Quite different from any hiking we had done to date.
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Arriving a rushing stream we quickly set up tent as the tabanos had again found us. Before eating we ventured into the hot springs only to find them glacier cold! We stopped too soon and found ourselves repacking and grumpily trudging another 20’ to camp making a couple of shoe-less stream crossings then camp. Finding what we thought was a isolated spot we relaxed the late afternoon hoping for a continuation of sunny, but breezy weather.
Before we could venture into the hotsprings however, our peaceful campsite was invaded by another nuisance – a dozen young Isrealis who though it appropriate to set up 20 feet from the tent and regale us in off key renditions of their favorite top 40 hits. They filled the springs as well, which was no loss as they were small, shallow and had a lingering, acrid sulphur odor so we ventured in only to tell the tale. No exactly how Dee envisioned enjoying her bottle of red she had totted for 2 days.
On cue the tabanos departed near sunset and we found a quiet, windless spot to enjoy dinner and the vino. The wind kicked up overnight, pushing low cloud and light rain on us as we started our return hike. With the change in weather holding the tabanos at bay we tread carefully, checking often for route markers hidden in the fog. With rain continuing to fall, we elected to hike out combining two days in one knee popping descent.
After a thorough cleaning in the private washroom at the surprising grand and rustic lodge at the base of the trail, we rewarded ourselves with a lunch of empanadas – quickly becoming Garth’s staple - and hamburgers. While we contemplated reorganizing / repacking our bags – our least favorite chore of the trip – our bus arrived 90’ early and we were shuffled on quickly, now looking a little less like backpackers and more like the homeless as we carted an addition two plastic garbage bags with us.
The bus rolled into the next stop quickly, only to announce that we would be waiting here for 90’ minutes. A chance to repack afte rall! The rain fell harder than we had seen since Iguazu and we counted our blessings to not be huddled in the tent up the trail.
Returning to the indistinct town of Osorno we elected to push on to our next stop in the resort of Pucon. We found a bit of food including a well deserved ice cream cone. Garth even found a friend content to lie on his feet and beg for licks.
