Update - Pucon, Chile

The blog is suffering given the numerous distractions the Chilean lakes district offers.  We've been biking, hiking, and doing our fair share of eating incredible seafood and fresh local produce.  Enjoy the latest pictures from our 180km bike ride around beautiful Lago Llanquihue and belated blog updates.

Lago Llanquihue

Give Patagonia a chance... Trekking Torres Del Paine

"Misery!" my Mom exclaimed when we described our upcoming week of activity in Southern Patagonia.  Hiking the 'circuit' of the Torres Del Paine National Park was the first 'unsupported' hike of this length that we had done.  Eight days of food, clothing, a house - well an extremely cramped rental tent -, frankly we were a little apprehensive ourselves as we listened in on a chat our hotel hosted on the eve of our trek.

We wandered down to the waterfront to have our final pre-trek meal at Los Pioneros restaurant.  It was a  massive feed of incredible seafood soup filled with mussels, scallops and clams combined with a huge filet of sumptuous salmon.  The  harbor and Andes Mountains framed our window-front table.  We contemplated why we'd want to leave this for the rigours of trekking.

Stowing away

We made our escape from Southern Patagonia on the NaviMag ferry 'cruise'.  While not exactly cruise-ship luxury it permitted us a beautiful ride through numerous fjords and close up views of the massive 13000 sq km Patagonia ice field.  More importantly we were allowed to flee our captors - over dramatizing to be sure - in Puerto Natales.

As expected we made fast friends on the boat, enjoyed many siestas, survived one wavy night on the high seas of the Pacific, and were entertained by far too many games of NaviMag bingo on our final evening.  1000km and 4 days later we found ourselves in the charming town of Puerto Varas in the Lakes District.  By definition still in Patagonia, but a world away.

We will stuff ourselves full of fresh seafood and colorful fruits and vegetables in the coming days.

Enjoy the pictures

Escaping Puerto Natales

Best of Torres Del Paine

Enjoy the photos of this incredible trek!

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Best of Torres Del Paine

This is getting interesting...

Hola Chicos,

We find ourselves in a middle of a pretty nasty strike involving numerous unions -  angry groups of like minded people anyway - in the Southwestern corner of the Chilean Patagonia.  We are safe, fed, and watered although the wine selection is lacking.

Preparing for the evacuation of the Turistas

With all roads blocked in and out of the city of Puerto Natales for the foreseeable future we have elected to hopefully board a cargo ship 'cruise' in the hopes of moving ourselves north of the conflict, taking in some great scenery at the same time.  We will post a summary of our amazing trek in the Torres Del Paine park shortly but in the meanwhile enjoy the pictoral essay.

Terra del Fuego Part 2

Terra del Fuego N.P.

Terra del Fuego National Park

Terra Del Fuego N.P.

The Road to Ushuaia

Ushuaia

Punta Tombo - March of the Penguins

Punta Tombo - Penguins

Peninsula Valdez Pictures

Penisula Valdez

Update - Puerto Natales, Chile

Well another 15 hours bus ride has brought us to the heart of Patagonian trekking at Torres del Paine National Park.  This one included 2 border crossings, 1 ferry crossing, and too many police checkpoints.  We finished it off hitching in the back of a truck for the final 7k when when our bus happened across a road-side tire fire protest our second in a week.  They do love there protest down here!

We depart on a nine trek tomorrow and look forward to the incredible views this park has to offer.

Will try and get some pictures posted soon!

Stunning Cerro Guanaco

We entered the National Park proper on the 2^nd to do two day hikes and camp at Lago Roca that borders with Chile.  The RN3 road we had followed from Buenos Aires made its ended some 3100km later and we appreciate the significance off covering every km.  

Despite a forecast for rain all week, we were blessed sunny skies and warm (+22C) temperature as we made the 4 hours ascent of the 1000m peak.  Yet another muddy patch lasting up a km confirmed we would be buying proper boots for our hiking in Chile at the end of the week.

Main Trail?

We spent the 31^st catching up on some much needed rest and exploring options about how to leave.  The irony was not lost us that after 30hours of buses, ferries, and border crossing we should be planning our escape but the limited bus service necessitated it.

Road Trip

Our bus made it only 50k but succumbing electrical failure at the depot in Trelew.  2 hours later the replacement bus showed and we continued the trip that would bring us overnight to Rio Gallegos and on-ward to Ushuaia.  The landscape continued the same under a beautiful that stretch in every direction into the late evening as we crossed the 49^th parallel – South – just after the solstice.

Puerto Madryn

We awoke with a jolt at 5:30 am.  Still on the bus and continuing to head south.  The sunrise was magnificent as it opened over the barren Patagonia landscape.  We have read much about Patagonia; in guidebooks, the Internet, of course the mandatory South American adventure novel, The Motorcycle Diaries by Che Guevara.  However our Canadian upbringing meant seeing vast, wide-open space were not new. The rising sun knifed through the morning cloud onto to the low shrubs of the gently rolling landscape.  As Dee peacefully slept we stopped briefly at Las Grutas to exchange passengers before making the final push to Puerto Madryn.  The steepe/desert landscape was reminiscent of the drive in Palliser Triangle of Southwest Saskatchewan - vaguely familiar yet a world away. 

As the bus swayed to and fro I was reminded of our cycling friends Liz and Phil warning us that the wind was ever-present, as permanent as the shrubs, rocks, and barbwire fences. We arrived in Puerto Madryn mid-morning and relatively refreshed.  A short walk brought us onto the city’s ocean front boulevard in this desert city by the sea.  Truly an amazing contrast and the warm, fresh ocean breeze put a smile on both our faces as we enjoyed a snack.

We had a big agenda in the next 48 hours.  Renting a car far too small for our long-limbs we sped out of town continuing to head south for Punta Tombo, 180km South.  Our destination was the coastal Magellan Penguins reserve that is home to a ½ million - 25% of the world’s penguin population - birds.   Our first Argentina road experience was pretty much as expected – fast and furious – as we skipped by Trelew before leaving the aggressive drivers along the RN3 for the road to return us to the coast.   Smooth pavement gave way to dusty, washboard gravel for the final 35km.  We were both entertained by the numerous road signs warning drivers of the pitfalls of rural driving.  Clearly not intended for two Canadian country kids!

A short walk over a hill from the reserve parking lot unfolded a tremendous scene.  Penguins filled the hills from here to the water a ½ mile away.  The walking path brought you as close as you wanted as the birds waddled their way from the beach to their dens.  We witnessed a far too intimate mating scene while neighbors looked on approvingly.  When not clumsily waddling along, the birds steadied themselves into the breeze – Patagonia remembers – content to let the tourist get their pictures.  It was an amazing sight. 

We made a detour into the small beach-town of Playa Union where I happened across a great deal of fresh cherries at 3pesos (.75$) / kg only to find out I needed to by 30kg to get the deal.  Dee felt that might a few too many for the next bus trip…

We retraced our way back to Puerto Madryn, continuing North to Peninsula Valdez National Park. 

After being fleeced once again at the park entrance where foreigners pay four x as much as Argentine nationals and 15x locals.  Plus an additional change b/c the car was a rental we flew down the barren highway to Puerto Pyramids, the areas only town. 

After a day of driving (500km) in Patagonia we got a sense of how vast and barren it is.  While people often comment on how desolate the prairie landscape is, by comparison to here it is an oasis.  In the northern portion it seems like little grows over a meter in height.  We’ve yet to see the herds of sheep and cattle grazing described in our guidebooks rather just miles and miles of nothing but tremendous blue skies and hot weather.

The nearly empty tiny town of Puerto Pyramide posing our first view of big sky sunset in over a month.  The black sand beach was incredible and deserted allowing us to enjoy fading light in solitude.  Dee rated it a top 5 for this trip.  We’ll let her review the archives before reaching a final verdict.

The bright sun chased us out of tent early and after debating the merits of a whale tour by boat before deciding against it as the migration season had come to a close.  We repacked our super-compact rental and put it to the gravel to re-test its mettle. 

We viewed dozens of Sea lions from our first stop at Punta Loboto including numerous newborns.  Watching them shout and play-fight kept us entertained in the warm morning sun. 

Moving to Punta Norte we re-joined the tourist route being run down by numerous tour buses filled with tourists making the daylong sprint from Puerto Madryn.  Punta Norte did live up to its billing as a major elephant seal nesting ground.  The sea-lions and giant seals seemed to live in harmony on the beach and we laughed at the now relative grace of the sea-lions in relation to elephant seals dragging themselves along the sand.

We felt a bit of Bermuda here as the viewing points were filled with English voices and celebrity cruises golf shirts as it turns out Puerto Madryn and the Peninsula is a major stop on the South America cruise circuit.  No wonder...

We made a small – and slightly illegal – stop at an incredible look off along a 30mile stretch of crystal clear blue ocean near Caleta Valdez.  Billions of small stones and pebbles perfectly smoothed and ovalized from the relentless wind and waves.  The road sliced through numerous large estancias (ranches) sporadically filled with sheep and Guanaco (llama).  While the sun continued to beat down brightly the wind gusted small whirlwinds on the gravel road. 

Dee put her eagle eyes to work spotting both a Right Whale and pod of Dolphin in the distance getting many thanks for the fellow on-lookers at the Caleta Valdez viewpoint.  In close proximity were more penguins and sea lions playfully exploring in the water.

After an ill-fated attempt to enter the exclusive Punta Delgada in the South – East corner we made a very dusty and bumpy expedition to Playa Paradelas near Puerto Pyramide.  It started as an unfateful walk to a rocky point 1k from the beach.  Dee’s hat blew into the water – by I managed to hang over the cliff and retrieve with my toe – as wind picked up to a stiff 50k.  As we looked out on the waves crashing the cliffs Dee again spotted a whale – or was it two? – Far off in the distance.  Confirmation came as the whaleboat nearby sped towards it.  Almost on cue to Dee’s out loud wish the whales would come closer the whales did.  First looping near the beach before making a slow beeline towards us getting as close as 10m.  It was a mother and calf, which we were told later, was rare for this time of year.  We felt very privileged.  We dreamily recounted the story numerous times as we contemplated another gorgeous sunset. 

A sunrise run up and down the deserted beach kicked off our next morning.  Breakfast consisted of little more than a piece of fruit as there is little going on in the sleepy little town until the tour buses show up at 10am.

We made a quick trip back into the pretty beach city of Puerto Madryn finding time, to take a stroll on the beach.  We had to grab a quick lunch and drink to make our 1:30 bus only to find it was delayed an hour.  It was a good opportunity to reflect on the busy last two days.  

On to Patagonia

Our new adventure was almost over before it began.

We made it down the highway just 15' before we came across a tire - burning protest taking place on the major thoroughfare south out of BsAs.  To us it looked quite serious but apparently these protests are treated as more of an inconvenience here.  

While quietly planning an exit strategy if the bus was attacked, we were entertained by the exit strategies the cars used.  Cars were 3 abreast coming down the on ramp as the police engrossed themselves in casual discussion on the roadside.  Were they not aware that there was a very un-peaceful protest 300m meters up the road?    This was not the first time we experienced this apathy.   A seemingly huge police presence but little in the way of police enforcement…  This presence extended to their part time gigs at the numerous kiosks, bookstores, and even Starbucks in the city.  Still not too far removed from their military roots.  On the positive our bus driver recognized the need to exit and managed to skillfully guide the double - decker bus through some very narrow side streets to by pass the mess.  Hopefully all the mirrors were still intact.

We set into a review of Spanish as we left the concrete jungle behind and entered the Pampas.  Perched on the top deck of our bus we drank in the bright sun as the prairie unfolded around us.  A movie with Spanish subtitles provided additional practice and the hours snuck away.  

I felt especially nostalgic, as our drive was similar to speeding down the Trans-Canada from Brandon to Winnipeg in late August.  Dust filled the horizon from dozens of combines bringing in what appeared to be a good harvest.  Dad would have enjoyed the scene at one roundabout where combines filled all four fields surrounding the road. 

Following an entertaining ‘bus bingo’ where we were challenged to quickly recall our Spanish numbers we tucked in to a lovely roast beef dinner – yes on the bus! -  as we passed a huge brushfire that filled the sky and lapped up dangerously close to the roadside.  Amazingly numerous people stopped by the roadside to take in the view with their cars parked 20’ from the flames.

We settled into a restful nights sleep as our bus speed into the Patagonia along the RN3.  We will follow this highway all the way to Ushuaia at the tip of Argentina. 

Adios BsAs

We bid farewell to BsAs on Boxing Day afternoon but not without a little drama.  Seems the owner of the apartment was unaware of our departure plans for 3pm and arrived in a panic @ 2:30pm for checkout.  At this point both Dee and I had given up on making our all-night bus that would take us to Puerto Madryn some 1500km south, but after shoving our 500$ deposit in our hands and our bags into his micro car, we sped for Retiro bus station.

Turns out he is a tour guide by trade, speaking more than passable English, and was no doubt readying himself to race in the upcoming Dakar rally leaving BsAs in 4 days as we weaved through traffic, showing the same indifference to red lights as the rest of the Portenos.

During the hair-raising trip he played tour guide, pointing out the numerous landmarks on our route in passable English while honking at fellow drivers and continuing a heated exchange with his wife in the front seat, presumably about who to hire to manage their apartment in the future...  As this was our first trip in a car since our hair-raising drive from the airport a month ago we were both equally entertained and terrified as we sped through the streets we had walked numerous times.

We arrived at Retiro at 2:54, which was 'plenty of time', according to host!  Making a frantic run across the station we found our bus waiting and were checked in and seated by the time the bus pulled out exactly 6' later.

As the bus rolled out of town we sighed and settled into seats, four weeks had flown by so quickly.  We admitted to mixed emotions, excitement to continue our adventure and sad to leave the homey comforts we enjoyed.  After five months of sleeping in family and friends’ guest rooms, tents, and the occasional 5 star hotel room – thanks again Donald! – We had really grown comfortable with our apartment and neighborhood.  We were on first name basis at the local café, fruitdeteria, and ice cream stand and could actually negotiate the local grocery store for the staples in record time.  Selfishly, I enjoyed Dee’s home cooking and baking she was eager to practice.

In no particular order - other than the first - we jotted down the things we’ll miss:

-       Dee’s baking

-       Great cafes at every corner (the instant on the bus won’t do!)

-       Scouring the fruit/vegetable stand loaded with fresh produce daily

-       The quaint tree, lined streets near our apartment

-       Our local ice cream shop whose owner was as quick to practice his broken English and we were our Spanish.  Needless to say some great interactions.

-       People watching over an afternoon lunch or late night dinner.

-       Our instructor Leticia’s patient smile, and enthusiastic lessons.

-       Sunday morning run on deserted city streets.

-       Searching through the clutter at the San Telmo market or nearby shops.

-       The warm summer nights.

-       The morning ritual of diligently cleaning the front steps of the apartment block by the managers.

-       The numerous police officer and security guards around the newspaper kiosks, cafés, and bookstores

And those we were happy to leave behind.

-       BA drivers  - WTF!  Total disregard for themselves, fellow drivers, and most of all pedestrians

-       The appalling condition of the sidewalks.  Numerous cracks, crevasses make strolling the streets a contact sport.

-       CaCa – If you own a dog, pick up the poop.  Not a hard concept…

-       Garbage – A recycling program that consists of homeless people tearing open every bag of garbage taking the valuables and leaving the rest scattered in the gutter.