Day 32 – Rest Day – Solvang

After a pleasant sleep in, we made a leisurely, gear free ride back up the valley to do a little more wine tasting.  We are definitely in Southern California now with its distinct Hispanic culture.  Most interaction is in Spanish – we really should be practicing more – and signage indicated so also.  We continued to pass numerous pumpkin patches and wineyards as we drank in the sun and warmth.

We returned to the town of Solvang for lunch.  Solvang was founded by Danish teachers who insisted on building a little piece of Denmark in the valley.  All buildings in the town of six thousand are Hans Christian Anderson cute, right down to the storks on the rooftops for good luck.  It of course has become a tourist mecca with the numerous bakeries, knick-knack shops, and cloggeries to prove it!

We’ve taken the rest of the evening to get caught up on the blog and stay warm in the tent.  While over 80F during the day, temperature gets near freezing at night so we’ll bundle up.

Dee the cyclist to Dee the tourist in 5' flat

Day 31 – Pismo Beach – Buellton – 116km

We met an immediate detour upon leaving the park leaving us with alternate route that provided us with our steepest climb of the trip.  Only ¼ mile long but a solid 14% left the legs and lungs burning a little earlier than we hoped.

The decent to Guadeloupe was a quick one and a return to a huge agriculture region.  Hispanic music blaring from farm tractors filled the air as dozens of workers picked peppers, cauliflower, and strawberries.  We rejoined the 1, which is now a busy, 4 lane freeway – how we miss the quiet roads of Oregon, and Northern California – before again branching off to detour around the massive Vandenberg Air Force Base.   Road construction crews had other plans however, and the second detour provided us with some significant climbing.   We stopped for a short lunch in Lompoc at your guessed it,  Starbucks…

This trip proudly sponsored by Starbucks

Our final of riding brought us into the Santa Ynez Valley.  We stopped for a couple of enjoyable tastings at Foley and Dierberg wineries before checking in at the Flying Flags RV Park. 

The commercial campground provides many trade-offs from the state campgrounds, particularly in California.  While they cater to the RV camper, they also treat the tenter well; pool, hot tub, laundry, and guaranteed hot showers just a few of the amenities.  Did I mention the free cookies at check – in?  Plus as an added bonus; no risk of a homeless couple backing their tent up against you. 

We ended the night with a memorable dinner at the Hitching Post.  The restaurant was made famous as the setting for many a scene in the hit movie 'Sideways', making Pinot Noir a star once again.  The food was great, service outstanding and the wine very enjoyable.

Dee @ The Hitching Post

Day 30 – San Simeon – Pismo Beach, CA – 98km

A tailwind!  A reversal in fortune as we started today’s ride with a push from a 15mph tailwind and sunny skies.  Our ride today was advertised as the move from the central coast to southern.  Palm trees and movie stars at any moment!

 Despite the late start to the riding we managed to make it 5 miles before stopping in the charming town of Cambria for lunch and some window-shopping.  

Continuation of the 3000km all you can eat buffet...

The breeze made the miles sail along as we passed through colorful Cayucos, Harmony (Population 18), and Morro Bay.  We detoured down to the pier to view the landmark rock; the largest of nine volcanic plugs in the area.  

Morro Rock

Momentarily losing our ‘push’, we battled the one climb of the day before making a long, fast descent on an inland valley towards San Luis Obispo. 

We enjoyed a pit stop at a local fruit stand, munching on strawberries and watermelons till our tummies hurt.  Pumpkin patches continue to be the theme with Halloween and American Thanksgiving quickly approaching. 

We cruised through SLO and then meandered back to the coast eventually riding into Pismo Beach.  We had spent a couple of days in Pismo several years ago but found some of its' charms had lost their luster.   

We made our way out quickly and to our campground in the hopes of catching another sunset.

Pismo is famous for the miles of long beach to its south along with the dunes that climb up from the water’s edge.  We enjoyed a clear night under the stars and full moon.  We had been warned about marauding raccoons and ducks looking to dine on your rucksack but were happy to find neither an annoyance.

Sunset @ Pismo Beach

Day 29 – Big Sur – San Simeon – 108km

During the night we had the first significant showers since the fly disaster in Washington a month earlier.  Happy to say the tent held up, but barely!  The morning light revealed more than a few puddles on the tent so we moved cautiously during breakfast in the tent.

With an entire night of rain, both Dee and I thought, “Can’t rain all day, can it?” so we elected to get started and wait for the sun to show its face.  Mistake.  We got 100% of the 60% chance of showers and a newfound respect for the accuracy of the meteorologists in California.  Tragically the scenic and hilly first 40 miles were just hilly and foggy.  At times we caught a glimpse of the water – as evidenced by the one picture Dee took.  

On the positive the wet weather left the highway completely devoid of all motor traffic which made the steep, twisting descents with little braking power bearable.

We made a point of stopping at Elephant Seal Beach where – you guessed it – we watched dozens of the creatures play, fight, or lie completely motionless on the beach, oblivious to the rain pouring down on them.

"What are you two cyclists doing out today in the rain?"

  We, on the other hand were more duck than touring cyclist and ready for a long day – 7 hours of pedaling steady – to end.  In a continuing theme we arrived dripping wet at the hotel, but looking human again after a long, hot shower and some dry clothes.

A beautiful Maple Leaf in the heart of the Redwoods

Day 27 & 28 (Mis)Adventures in Monterrey - New Brighton State Park – Monterey – Big Sur – 164km

Housekeeping @ New Brighton Park

We awoke early to the sounds of construction workers this morning.  It seems that the chalked white line that ran through the tent site was where a ditch was to be dug – starting at 7:30 this morning! – We hustled through our normally leisurely breakfast and were packed quickly as the Ditch Witch moved in.

We said good-bye to the three musketeers; Richard, Bruce, and Sue who we’ve been meeting intermittently over the past two weeks.  We’ll miss their humor and good spirits at camp.

Despite being described as a ‘boring’ ride in our guidebook we found the first 25 miles most interesting.  We pedaled along flat country roads into the heart of some prime strawberry and vegetable fields.  With it being the peak of harvest fields were packed with workers walking the fields loading their baskets. 

Harvesting strawberries south of Santa Cruz

Dee briefly contemplated part time work for a few days but the thought of all you can eat brussel sprouts was not appealing enough.  However, she would have definitely fit the illegal immigrant requirement.

Disaster struck just miles from Monterey when a clamp on Dee’s bike rack snapped.  Loading up BOB and our backs we slowly spun into Monterey as the showers began.

 After a Google Maps reconnaissance mission we found a shop that could assist.  Winning Wheels made a great and more permanent fix but then provided absolutely shocking directions to our campground; adding numerous miles and a back breaking climb to finish the day’s riding.

Thankfully our hilltop campsite came with very hot and free showers to lift our frayed spirits and tired legs.  We made a quick trip to Fisherman’s Wharf; enjoying a great seafood dinner while being entertained by a dozen very loud and angry sea lions fighting over a dock to lounge on. 

We returned to camp full and poised for a restful sleep – until the neighbors showed up.  A very loud and drunken couple had set up their tent next to us during our absence, waiting until well after dark to begin the boorish and nonsensical discussion of their troubles.  Clearly they had forgot that the walls of a tent are far more porous than those in a house.  We are not one’s to eavesdrop but in their drunken and high state we couldn’t even enjoy that. 

Groggily we awoke after a fitful night, determined to get on the road to enjoy the gorgeous ride to Big Sur.  We found the local Whole Foods – we should really buy shares in this company – and fuelled up. 

Unfortunately we discovered yesterday’s fix on Dee’s bike had given way.  Off to the bike shop we go again!  We decided a more permanent – new rack – fix was in order but the delay cost us the morning, plus an additional climb of the hills I described earlier.

Once on the road we enjoyed the sights; The end of 17 mile drive, the very beautiful and exclusive Carmel Highlands, and of course the now sweeping views of the California 1.  The pace was slow, the viewpoint stops many.  This part of the highway is an engineering marvel, built during the Great Depression and painstakingly maintained ever since. 

With rain threatening, we elected to stop at the Big Sur State Park, once again setting up the tent among the Redwoods in the hopes of protection from the rain.  We explored the rustic lodge, relaxing to enjoy a drink in their lounge.  We had an enjoyable pasta dinner under the canopy of the trees, before practicing some Spanish and enjoying a very restful and quiet evening.

Looking back at Bixby Bridge, Big Sur

Day 26 – Half Moon Bay – Santa Cruz – 98km

After a night of crashing surf just meters away from the campsite in Half Moon Bay we woke early and a little stiff now that we are ‘roughing it’ once again.  The rest of the riders in camp set off while we enjoyed our usual large breakfast of cereal, fruit, and break with pb. 

Out of practice in packing up, we struggled to get moving, laughing at our snail's pace.  Today’s ride marked a definite change in vegetation as the coast became significantly more windswept with small shrubs replacing trees.  IWater was usually not far from sight as the road made numerous short climbs only to descend to the next deserted beach. 

Near Pebble Beach North of Santa Cruz

We had a pleasant stop at an Organic berry farm half way through the ride.  The strawberries were gorgeous!  The panniers were topped with 3 baskets worth in this interesting payment system…  10% discount for cyclists; how could we go wrong. 

Today’s ride took us through some of the premier surfing along the West Coast.  Not surprisingly, each beach and cove we passed was filled with surfers despite in being a cool, late October Thursday.  I guess the surfers are on the same retirement schedule we are…

With flatter conditions and a wind change we made Santa Cruz, meandering the beautiful coast road and admiring the charming houses along it.  We stopped to take in a surfing competition before getting lost on the way through town.   Thankfully we found our bearing along with a Whole Foods Market to get stocked up for the evening.

The New Brighton State Park is a pretty one although run very officiously as we were told that all tenters must vacate by 9am and only allowed a one night stay.  Good thing we were planning on moving on…

We enjoyed another evening on an empty beach enjoying a bottle of Goldeneye, along with dinner.  While our location did not permit a full view of the sunset we caught a great moonrise which Dee caught on the camera.

Day 25 San Francisco – Half Moon Bay – 60km

We definitely lingered today, enjoying the morning at the hotel, doing some bike checks, and of course the repack…

We’ve not gone into much detail about the routine of preparing for bike travel.  Simply put – everything has its place – and the moment things are not in their place, trouble begins.  Of course after a three-day break, some habits need to be reestablished.  It started with me not being able to find the various locks and pins for the BOB – not in their spot – as well as finding a new home for a pair jeans and shoes, easier said than done!

We rolled out around noon, slowly riding along the waterfront, into Fisherman’s Wharf for a final look at the tack.  A quick stop at a recommended deli for lunch allowed the skies to clear for our return to the Golden Gate and continuation of the ride.  We stopped for numerous pictures and to admire this impressive structure.

Our ride continued to push us South through San Francisco’s numerous suburbs.  Unlike those cities to the North these were a little rough around the edges.  With only one navigating error causing a 20’ detour the ride went smoothly. 

We were told that today’s ride would be littered with pumpkin patches and it certainly was.  At least a dozen in the final 15 miles, each offered a view of a ‘Giant’ pumpkin, and a well-decorated field for children young and old to explore.

With the clouds settled in late in the day, we decided to kill a little time before arriving at camp, almost causing us to miss this great sunset.  We decided that perhaps we could tone down the calories a bit so we opted for a dinner of granola and fruit…

One of the best yet @ Half Moon Bay

San Francisco by foot – October 17 – 20

Transamerica Building & Telegraph Hill - From our Hotel Room!

With home base at the impressive Mandarin Oriental Hotel in the Financial District and on flat ground made exploring SF a little easier for us.  With Dee desperate to see me in something other than now oversized action pants, we went on the hunt for jeans, finding an adequate pair in one of the shops in the trendy Union Square.  A little more searching delivered a pair of shoes for Dee so we were ready for civilized night on the town.

We found a fantastic Thai restaurant well off the beaten path for some terrific Pad Thai and curry.  The variety and number of restaurants in the city is astounding, especially after preparing and cooking meals out of one pot for the last month.  Note to selves – get more creative!

With the sun continuing to shine we decided to take on the hills, climbing Russian and Nob hills; getting a new appreciation of why they have maintained the streetcar system all these years.  Not only a tourist attraction, the streets they climb are far too step for any mode of public transportation.  We heard numerous chirping of the tires from tourists not respecting the steepness of these climbs while sightseeing.

After finding the world’s most picturesque basketball court high up on Nob Hill, we descended to Fisherman’s Wharf enjoying some chocolate at Ghirardelli’s and a late afternoon latte. 

We climbed the ‘World’s most crooked street’ before stopping at a charming French Bistro for amazing mussels pomme frites and French onion soup.  A stop at our mistresses for take out that we could enjoy back at the hotel room…

Watching the trains from Hyde St. Bistro

With Tuesday being ‘game day’ – San Francisco Giants home playoff game – The city had a buzz going by the time we hit the streets.  We made our way to the Terminal Market among a sea of orange and black clad fans preparing for the afternoon game.  We especially got a kick out of one couple of fans that were enjoying a gourmet cupcake and a bottle of red wine – at 10am!

Dee and I filled up on samples at the large farmer’s market taking place outside, happy to be enjoying the fresh produce, cheeses, and bread.  We bought a small stash intent to have après walking the city snacks in our luxurious hotel room later in the day.

A colorful sample of the Farmer's Market

We slowly sauntered down to the ballpark at noon, just ahead of the 1pm start.  As expected the scene was electric.  Lots of shouting, high fives, and enthusiasm.  The scalpers were in full force as we were offered numerous tickets, all for a ‘special’– expensive price.  As neither of us is a huge fan of the game we opted for to continue to enjoy the pre-game build up from the outside at this impressive park built along a revitalized waterfront.   We did stop at a neighboring bar for one beer where I was interviewed by one of the local TV stations.  I think he thought we had ridden our bikes 2000km to catch the game!

Meandering our way back to the hotel late afternoon amid the elation of a Giants’ win we met up with our friends Phil and Liz who have also made it to San Fran, staying with friends.  We gleefully showed off our temporary digs and enjoying some fine wine, cheese, and bread. 

Relaxing at the MO after a day of exploring

In a continuing theme, we strolled up to North Beach for more delicious Italian food and of course a final visit with our girl for dessert.  

Days with Naia

We might as well come out and tell you all.  We’ve had an affair in San Francisco.  I know you all might be a bit taken back; after all we appeared to be happily married.  However we succumbed to temptation too many times to deny the truth.

Our mistress has been frozen pints of Naia Gelato.  A frozen concoction of pure peanut butter, chocolate, and nocciola bliss.  It started innocently enough with a suggestion from our waiter at a little Italian bistro we had dinner at.  “Go try the Gelato across the street it is amazing.” 

Now this is not the first time we have come across this temptress having just spent time in its ancestral home in Italy last summer.  However this time was different; the flavors were unique: Earl Grey tea, Rose, Pumpkin, and Kiwi.  The use of local farms for the ingredients, the enthusiasm of the servers – who let us try every single flavor before choosing -, and the generous servings made it a tryst we’ll not soon forget.

Day 24 – Samuel Taylor State Park – San Francisco – 50km

Rain!  Our second campfire last night and of course rain.  It was steady drizzle when we escaped the canopy of the Redwoods.  Interestingly, we had our worst riding conditions of the entire trip leaving the park.  The road had huge, Winnipeg sized potholes and we found ourselves puttering along at 10mph.

Today’s ride would take us thru the numerous satellite cities of San Francisco.  Charming little towns like Fairfax, San Anselmo, and finally Sausilito where made a soup stop and reprieve from the rain.

The ride onto the Golden Gate Bridge was a bit anticlimactic as the fog limited our view and the wind and rain meant we wouldn’t linger too long for photos.

After some patient navigating as the San Fran streets we arrived at the hotel just slightly dripping wet.  While the front desk was probably not too happy to see us they accepted our credit card and we were unpacked and in the shower/bath in minutes.

We fought to get out of the bed before finally walking up to the Italian district where we had an enjoyable dinner before experiencing some incredible gelato.  We’ll be back there tomorrow, and the next day!

Day 23 – Bodega Dunes State Park – Samuel Taylor State Park – 71km

The legs were a little tired after yesterday’s ride but with a short day planned we poked along at a leisurely pace.  Today’s ride moved us away from the coast in the approach to San Francisco.  We made a great stop at this bakery in Tomales where we enjoyed some sumptuous baked goods.  We knew it would be a good stop as it was packed with motorcyclists and cyclists alike.  Even had a great conversation with the owner of my BMW GS12000.  He’s keeping it in good condition til I need it…

We saw numerous roadies and triathletes on the road as we pulled out.  The ride along Tomales Bay was fun; a relatively quiet road, new pavement, and a tailwind made the next fifteen miles fly by.  We even encountered our first pass when a 60 something triathlete made a big push by us.  Our competitive instinct kicked in and we found ourselves chasing him down while he faded on the next hill.  Dee punched on a long hill and we left him in the dust while we booked it into Point Reyes Station.  We lingered around this cute little town, which seemed to be flooded with shoppers from the Bay area.  We caught the end of a farmer’s market, another great bakery or two. 

This small town is the gateway to the Point Reyes National Seashore.  We were sorry this area was not bike friendly but we did visit the visitor’s center to see the landscape.  A hilly ride brought us back in the Redwoods and our campground.  We found a beautiful campsite at the base of 5 huge Redwoods, which was very neat as we missed the Redwoods camping experience earlier on the trip.

We met a fellow biker camper named Natalie from Quebec City.  She started her solo trip from Seattle around the same time as us so we decided.

Day 22 – Manchester Beach – Bodega Dunes State Park – 111km

What a beautiful ride!  We started early to cool temps and sunshine.  With reasonably flat roads we made good time, stopping in the cool, little town of Gualala for a tasty Latte and get caught up on our email and blog.

Best Latte to date @ Tinks Cafe, Gualala, CA

Beyond Gualala we rolled in and out of some beautiful coves; Sea Ranch – an entire community of seemingly matching houses, Ocean Bay, before finally stopping at Stillwater Cove Park where we had a quick break. 

Stillwater Cove 

The stunning scenery made our last 25 miles of mostly climbing incredible.  The highway has literally been jammed into the hill rising 800feet above the beaches and sea stacks below.  Our pace was slow but as we stopped often to take numerous pictures and absorbed this wonderful ride.

We arrived at Bodega Dunes in time to catch the sunset before retiring to our sandy and slightly hilly campsite.

Oh the places we’ve been! – Week 3 highlights

As we know, some of you want just the short version of events.  Fortunately for you we’ve been out of contact so here are JUST the highlights since we posted last.  For you dedicated readers a full blog follows

We rode the Avenue of the Giants and their awesome Redwoods uninterrupted by traffic on Saturday. 

Stayed a night at the “Last of the American Roadhouses” which was treat for the senses. 

Made the final push onto California 1 on Monday. 

Enjoyed the beautiful seaside town of Mendocino.

Made a detour to the Anderson Valley wine region in search of a perfect Pinot Noir and found several to choose from. 

Tried to see if we could get lost and climb the steepest route back to the coast.  Mission accomplished.

Found our best sunset to date at Manchester Beach.

We are three days of riding to San Francisco where we plan to spend three days exploring the city, living like kings and queens thanks to Donald's magic at the Mandarin Oriental, eating something other than bread, cheese, and soup, and sleeping in a more comfortable bed!  For that matter a bed, period!

Day 21 – Hendy Woods State Park – Manchester Beach State Park – 61km

One of our shortest days and, due in part to our foolishness, one of our hardest.   After much discussion on whether to backtrack or have a go our one the mountain roads to the coast we decided on the latter.  

Mistake.

The     …we are under attack…I’ll be right back!!!   Another raccoon attack preempted – hungry little bastards!

Our scenic detour that the host at Goldeneye assured we could handle was a knee popper.  It varied between 6 – 10% for 12 miles right from the first pedal leaving camp.   The few flats and downs gave us little reprieve and us, like the Cervelos were shuddering under the effort.    We arrived in the tiny coastal town of Elk, 18 miles in just over 2hours… 

Fueled with some food we continued south, in and out of picturesque coves, and jaw dropping cliffs-sides just inches from the road.  

With today a laundry day and hoping to catch a stunning sunset, we worked quickly and found ourselves on another deserted beach to enjoy the late afternoon warmth, crashing waves, and this incredible sunset.  

Sunset @ Manchester Beach

Day 20 – Anderson Valley Tour – 42km

After a 93F day of heat, bloody freezing last night ! We huddled for warmth in the tent, our first morning we could see our breath in there. We warmed up by slowly meandering along the Anderson Valley, famous for its Pinot Noir Grape.  The ideal combination of soil, climate (very hot days with cool(d) nights), and altitude make it one of the premier regions in the US.

With the metropolis of Boonville (300) marking the end of the valley we began to visit the wineries but not before finding some food and a café.  I tasted some flavorful beer at the Anderson Valley Brewing Company.  I was especially fond of the Oatmeal Stout that could give Guinness a run for its money.  A couple of small wineries were uneventful with their offerings but as always we learn a little more about viticulture.

Brian has graciously arranged a tasting at Goldeneye, Dee’s favorite winery in the afternoon and we were given the royal treatment.  Multiple tastings came complete with tidbits to cleanse the palate, more education, and a comfortable couch to sink in to laze the afternoon away. 

Somehow we pulled ourselves away but late afternoon, weighed down by a couple of bottles of the nectar.  Using the logic the soil must be similar here we wandered across the road to a charming new winery called Jim Ball vineyards.  Our host Lucille was local, young, enthusiastic, and generous with her pouring even offering to let us taste the wine in the Oak casks using this interesting device to protract the wine.

  

We were also treated to Dark Chocolate with Smoky Bacon nibbles that were tremendous!

Lucille recommended the Toulouse winery near our campsite as a final destination.  Here Larissa presented more very drinkable options sending us along with several stunningly fresh Tomatoes to enjoy with dinner.

Our late hunger got the best of however and we found ourselves in Libby’s, the local Mexican restaurant devouring enormous, and excellent tasting burritos.  The decision to dine in had dire consequences as we had to make a mad dash home by bicycle with nightfall pending.  Hard physical effort after Mexican is NEVER a good thing.  There is a reason why they siesta…

Day 19 - Van Damme SP to Hendy SP – 90km

Detour!  We found ourselves a little ahead of schedule and a little too close to one of America’s premier wine growing valleys to not make a slight detour today.   The Anderson Valley is just miles from the coast and we decided to pay it and its numerous wineries a visit.

We spent the morning lazily wandering around the town of Mendocino, a former logging town that reinvented itself as a home for artists fleeing the big cities to the south.  With numerous restored Victorian homes overlooking the coast, along with several overpriced shops – you name the product – it was easy place to spend three hours with little, but much accomplished. 

After breaking camp we headed away from the coast into a smaller, yet stunning 14-mile highway through the Redwoods.  Flat, downwind, and cool we made great time along this narrow road.

Quickly the vineyard came into view as we exited the Redwoods, and so did the heat.  Summer was here in Mid-October.  We made our way to the Navarro vineyard as recommended by our expert Brian and we were impressed.  14 wines on display to taste and no hurry in the process.  We settled on a Zinfandel in the end along with some beautiful goat cheese, which we enjoyed by starlight at our quiet little campground.

Day 18 – Leggett to Van Damme State Park CA – 94km

Today was the epic climb to the coast, which was much talked about at dinner last night.  It would be the highest part of the entire coastal climb (2500ft) and with rumored very steep grades. 

Anxious to get ahead of the crowd and the traffic we left in record time at 8am.  With only 2 miles to the foot of the climb and 40F temps – freezing!!! – We were not quite warmed up.  However we found a steady rhythm and beautiful conditions as we weaved our way through the spruce trees to the summit. 

The 10-mile decent was very fun as it was at a lesser grade and on smooth road with little traffic. 

The next climb was of course the more difficult one that had the now cooled off leg burning.  The decent brought right on to the stunning coast where we had to stop and take more than a few moments to take it all in. 

We will wind along the coast for the next 3 weeks with this stunning road offering us numerous postcard views.  We rode through Westport along with numerous other small communities before arriving at Mackerrier State Park by 11am.   With the day far too glorious to end riding so soon we decided to push onto Fort Bragg via this stunning bicycle route right along the water before deciding to stop for lunch. 

A wine (Pacific Star) and chocolate tour followed by the daily stop at Safeway ate up most the afternoon.  We seem to eat up the time strolling down the aisles eyeing up the numerous offering eventually settling of the similar staples – baguette, cheese, fresh veggies and fruit (getting better in California), and breakfast cereal – that we enjoy. 

Sunset @ Van Damme State Park

Despite initial disappointment in a campground closure near the artsy little town of Mendocino we were pleased to find next stop at Van Damme campground more than met our needs.  It was but a short walk to this stunning beach where lounged in the warm afternoon sun before taking in yet another stunning sunset.   Eric and Laura arrived late and we enjoyed their company before calling it a night.

Day 17 – Phillipsville to Leggett CA – 52k

Relatively refreshed despite the events of the night before and motivated by a short distance to cover today we headed off around 11am en route to Leggett and the gateway to Pacific Coast Highway 1.  I greeted two riders we had met two days ago while we got ready to leave.  It seems finally after 2 weeks that we are starting to meet up with a few other cyclists making their way down the coast. 

It was a hilly day, mostly up, as we travelled from 200 to 1100 feet asl.  We’re both finding these longer hills more manageable than the repetition of the short, steep grunts that predominate most of the coastal riding. 

We found ourselves in the deserted Standish-Hickey state Park by 1pm and not sure quite what to do with ourselves.  Once we made camp we headed across the street to the small and interesting Peg House.  A roadside café / grocery/ Internet hub where we caught up on the world, enjoying some lunch – yet another bleached white flour bagel! – and taking in the sunshine. 

Slowly, several cyclists began to find their way to the Peg.  First it was Calvin, a recent retiree from White Rock who is doing this circuit for the second time.  Richard from Wales who Dee met amid many laughs two days ago arrived to proclaim, “Those nearly did my head in!”  Youngsters Eric and Laura from Oregon were next to arriving.  They are the most ambitious yet having started August 1 from Anchorage with the intention of getting to the tip of Argentina – WOW -.  They were very concerned with finding cold beer and were not disappointed…

Finally Bruce and Sue from I’m not sure where arrived.  These two are the most unlikely looking of bike travelers but with every intention of making it from Washington to the tip of Panama before he gets called back to work.  Today, however was not a good day for them as Sue had a shouting match with several drivers on the road and at one of the gas station.  It looked like tonight would be a busy one at the shared hiker – biker site at the campground.

We shared Thanksgiving dinner with Calvin and got to know each a bit over a cheeky Malbec.  Calvin is the most prepared rider I’ve seen.  I counted no less than 11 water bottles on his bike and BOB trailer.  He claimed to have 6 changes of cycling gear (?), every tool imaginable, as well as the kitchen sink. He estimated he was carrying about 350lbs between himself, bike and equipment and topped out at 45 mph on the decent today.  A Mack truck on three wheels.  

Live at the Riverwood

Well we can say it was an experience we won’t soon forget.  Our host Laureen was more than a bit bewildered to be hosting cyclists; “We usually have lots of bikers, but with more leather than you” but nonetheless welcomed us into the bar (check in) and escorted us downstairs to the quaint, and tacky room.  No TV, Internet –"‘There’s nothing OUT THERE that can’t wait til tomorrow”  was the reply – but a nearby store to get a snack after an epic day before taking in a late afternoon nap.

We were awoken by a terrible ruckus at 6pm.  Hooting, hollerin’, and the stamping of feet – did we mention our room was directly UNDER the bar – It seemed to us that Happy Hour was in full effect and everyone was enjoying themselves.  Anticipating a late night we enjoyed sipping on a bottle of wine we had bought earlier and brushed up on our Spanish.

With music at 9 we wandered up for the highly anticipated Mexican dinner at 8.  We were not disappointed in the very authentic cuisine devoid of sour cream, salsa and extra cheese.  We savored each bite and drank in the colors of the room; bright red velvet adorning the walls, maize and tan carpet on the floor and authentic diner style table and chairs from 1971.  The Margs were outstanding and the glasses deep.

Natasha James – ‘Country – Blues with a Tex-Mex flair – was tonight’s attraction and she started playing on cue at 9pm.  All original songs we were told although given our experience in these genres it would have been easy to fool us.  Many of the patrons we’re in the mood to dance and the parquet floor filled quickly with bikers and locals who all seemed to know each other while we soaked up the atmosphere.  

Despite our enthusiasm to put in a big night our full bellies and realization that we had cycled 115k of hills began to put a dint in our resolve and we found ourselves fading towards the end of the first set @ 10:30.  We promised ourselves a quick break downstairs before returning – the person watching was too good -.  However when the big man hit the bed it was lights out and we found ourselves sleeping through the entire next set before the 1am brawl at the bar woke us up albeit briefly.  We are getting OLD!  

The Riverwood - Last of the American Roadhouses

Day 16 – Eureka KOA to Phillipsville CA – 113km

A surprisingly restful night at the KOA as the rain held off and the well-manicured lawns provided soft relief for our backs unlike the gravelly sites at the various state parks. 

After a large breakfast – The result of GT doing the shopping – we hit the highway, anxious to put some miles on the legs before people awoke this Saturday morning. 

The recommended cycle tour through the Victorian neighborhoods of Eureka was a little disappointing.  The homes were a little beat up to say the least and the West Coast version of ‘old’ probably means 90 years which is young by comparison to some of the homes in BDA or Canada's East Coast.

We made good time along the quiet 101 to today’s feature attraction; the 32-mile Avenue of the Giants scenic highway that rolled through the Redwood Park and the massive old growth forest.   With camera’s whirring and necks crooked far in the air we slowly meandered down the road, stopping often to take pictures as the beams of light darted among these giants.  

With October being near the end of the tourist season we were pleased to find the narrow road completely void of all RV traffic and we often found ourselves riding two abreast as the road meandered along the Eel River valley.   The trees are a marvel of nature; enormous creatures so strong and pointing straight to the sky.  Temperatures in the shade were cool (55f) and when the road meandered in the sun they shot up 20f in 50feet.  Amazing.

There was original two million acres of the old growth forest before someone got the wise idea they should log it.  150 years later and only 4% remain either in State/National Parks or private trusts.  We highly recommend visiting these wonders of nature soon!

We made the requisite stops at Mammoth Tree, Never Ending Tree, and of course the Drive – Thru Tree @ Myer’s Flats.  We missed the Drive – Thru tree, instead stopping for a forgettable wine tasting and lunch stop.

With the forecast calling for rain and both of us experiencing a bit of ‘tent fever’ we decided to stop for the night at the Riverwood Inn. The Riverwood advertises itself as the last of America’s true Roadhouses.  A roadhouse is defined as a having a hotel, dining, bar, men’s room – no not a restroom but rather a MAN’S ROOM – and live music.  While not expecting a reincarnation of Patrick Swayze to return for a cameo we were tempted by the interesting website, and promise of a fresh Mexican feast and live music.  We’ll save the soup for tomorrow.