Bogota By Bike

Dee doing battle with Bogota traffic

It would be fair to say we were a little apprehensive about the final stop of our South American tour in Colombia’s capital, given its infamous history. A 90-minute flight brought us from the steamy Caribbean coast to bustling Bogota with its nine million souls.  Jammed against the Andes range at 8000ft we arrived in the early evening to rain and cool temperatures, quickly donning our pants, sweaters, and rain jackets. 

Our cab driver was animated and excited to hear our opinion of the city “We just got here” and the country “Yes, the north is beautiful…”.  Young and well dressed he seemed particularly interested in my views of Colombian women, seemingly oblivious to Dee’s presence in the back seat.  This continued as we drove through the red-light district.

We arrived at our much-recommended hostel to find it clean, safe, but decided cramped with beds that were in contention for ‘worst of the trip’.  Deep breath… 

Bogota has spent the last two decades trying to revamp its image as the most unlivable capital city in the world.  After a half century of promises it finally delivered a dedicated bus system in 2000 to help address the crippling traffic and smog that pervades the city.  A massive police presence – literally a police officer on ever corner in the areas we traveled - attempts to address crime that choked tourism for so long.  A final – and most interesting – piece to the puzzle was to institutionalize alternative transportation namely cycling.  With over 300km of bike paths winding through the city – the most in the world Bogotanos’ claim – along with a weekly ‘cyclovia’ in which all major roads in the city’s center are closed to permit a cycling day that up to 3 million cyclists participate in -  we anticipated a Latin America cycling utopia. 

One of the numerous rooftop statues in La Candeleria

With that in mind we made plans for a city tour by bike with the appropriately named Bogota Bike Tours.  Keeners that we were we emailed the company well in advance, but receiving nothing in advance went about finding the shop early on Friday morning.  After being told to return at 10:30 we returned at 10:15 to a dozen would be tourers being fitted for bikes along a narrow cobble stoned street while cabs, delivery trucks, and motor bikes zipped dangerously close.  As we approached the shop two bikes were shoved at us along with a helmet and of course waiver to sign. 

We’d yet to find anyone that resembled the English-speaking guide until a rider skidded to a halt at 10:30.  Applying sun cream, he said a couple of words to a staff member, gave a ‘let’s go’ wave and we were off.  Novices quickly struggled to shift the bike into a low gear to handle the fairly steep uphill on the first corner.  Most seemed oblivious to the fact that we were following the leader up a one-way street in the wrong direction, Dee and I quickly hitting the sidewalk to avoid playing chicken with the on-coming cars. 

Stopping in Plaza Corriendor we received introductions.  Mike was the U.S. ex-pat and a former journalist who came to Colombia to learn Spanish, married and never left.  Capitalizing on the bike movement sweeping the city he founded the company and never looked back.   Dee best described him as dishelved; sunhat jammed under his crooked unfastened helmet, collared shirt bursting from under an ill-fitting sweater, he was quite a sight.  He laid out our route – not that any of us had a clue where we were going – for the day and with no further explanation – like say rules of the road?- we set off in to head on traffic once again. 

We didn't get far when the teacher was mobbed...

We moved slowly with Mike stopping often to highlight points of interest.  At Plaza Bolivar we saw the government and judicial building while learning about Colombia’s murderous political pass.  Mike told us the country has had more assassinations of politicians than all other countries COMBINED.  Historical periods often start and finish around horrible massacres, and coups, with scandalous corruption normal operating procedure.  It was a reminder to not complain about the peace and orderly democracy we take for granted in Canada.

Breaking from the bloodshed we stopped at Emerald Corner.  The valuable green gem is major export commodity yet traded among hundreds of middle-aged men here in broad daylight in this supposed crime – riddled city.  They were quick to show their offerings and Mike was quick to remind us that we may get a great deal, or an expensive piece of glass…

Mike shows off 8K$ worth of emeralds.  Or an 8$ piece of glass

Continuing to weave sidewalks filled with midday crowds and skirting the busy and bumpy street we happened across a street-side bar offering ‘Natural Viagra’ or ‘Savage Love’.  The drink looked like a smoothie with the secret aphrodisiac of a small live crab blended in for good measure.  We all had a sip and a good laugh as Mike explained that it was a daily ritual for him, with no effects.

"Mi no gusta la bebida!"

After miraculously making a group crossing of a major intersection we arrived at one Bogotá’s largest fruit markets.  The country grows the greatest diversity of tropical fruits in the Americas – in Mike’s opinions – and he set out to let us try them all.  Yum!  We moved on to a coffee beanery and had our best coffee on the continent, delicious! 

Colombian fruit was amazing!

Fuelled and caffeinated we continued on to see Bogota’s bull fighting ring.  The violent and controversial sport is an important part of Colombia’s expression of their machismo culture and Mike shared a little history while the 16 year old  security guard / bullfighter in training showed his first battle scar.

Safely above the ring at Bogota's bullfighting arena

As with all tours of the city we made an obligatory stop at the largest cemetary, this one, like the others we had visited jammed into the center of the city.  In keeping with the political history we visited grave after grave of assassinated politcal leaders, not surprised given they've had more political murders then the next five largest countries, combined!  I whispered a good luck request at this famous leaders statue which is working so far...

We meandered back to the shop, Dee and I amazed by the tour and astonished someone didn’t go to the hospital in an ambulance.  On Biker Mike's recommendation we caught dinner and live music at a local restaurant, happy to be far from the busy streets.