"You signed up for a trek and that's what we're gonna do" - Inca Trail

We elected to travel by foot to Machupicchu via the famous Inca Trail - a four day hike in and around the mountains, passing numerous ruins along the way to the big prize.  We are still unsure of the distance as we consulted at least eight maps with eight different distances.  At least the trail was well marked!



Unlike previous hikes where we were self supported from tent to cook stove, all hiking in the region must be done with a guide company.  We found ourselves as part of a fifteen tourist, two guide, and twenty - two porter entourage - Team SAS - traveling from Cuzco to 'kilometer 82' by bus motor coach.  A slight change from thumbing it to or from the trails in Chile or Argentina...

Riding along the high plains north of Cuzco just after sunrise we could see the peaks of Salkantay, Palcay rising above the low clouds.  After a steep descent into  Urubamba, we continued west into the Sacred Valley as the steep forested mountains narrowed on both sides.  The sun tried to push back the clouds as we bounced along the final few gravelly kilometers to the trail head.

Our group was an ecceletic, but energetic group of Canadians, Americans, Aussies, and a lone Russian.  Some were South American travellers like ourselves, while others were on a quick 10 visit to Peru only arriving in Cuzco the day before the trip.  We felt for their legs, lungs, and heads as they dealt with the trail and the altitude.

The trail sees about 100-200 tourists depart each day with the equal amount of porters to carry equipment  and in most cases people's belonging.  Of course we went the hard way choosing to carry all personal gear which seemed a breeze as we were minus the tent and food.

Our lead guide Javier was a native Peruvian and self described freelance - and outspoken - guide. Early on the bus ride he lamented on how the hike had changed, essentially becoming a 'cruise'.  Tourist were unpreppared for the rigours of the hike and disrespectful.  Glad he wasn't working for the Peruvian Tourism Board...

The hike was going to be an exercise in patience for both of us.  We were used hiking our pace - fast -, short stops, light on the food, and a siesta in the late day sun after making camp.  Javier announced at our first stop - after 5' - "You signed up for a trek and that's what were going to do."  Time to really smell those roses I guess.

Llaqtapata Ruins

We found ourselves looking down on the first stunning ruins at Llaqtapata after 90'.  Incredibly maintained, the terraces, and remains of buildings, and temple were clearly visible in the valley below.  Javier was quick to point out that its wasn't Spanish who solely destroyed the great Inca empire, rather civil war within the empire itself.  It was the first I had heard a Peruvian admit that.  Interesting...

Not exactly roughing it!

Our lunch stop shortly thereafter was best described as a feast.  We arrived to a dining tent, hot and cold drinks, and a buffet, of carbs, vegetables, and meat.  After gorging for 30 minutes we collectively were looking for a blanket to nap on while Javier tried to rouse the troops - we still had 4 hours to hike!

The mornings enthusiasm was lost by most and the group split up immediately.  We hiked well into the sunset to our camp at 3600m with the tail end of the group some 75' later under headlamps.  It was a quiet dinner for most; some suffering the headaches and malaise of altitude while other the blisters and aching muscles of vigorous hiking.

The porters shook the tent at 5am (!) with warm tea and a call to breakfast.  As expected the group was a little shattered after a restless night of thunder, rain, and altitude.  Jazmine from Los Angeles and at 16 our youngest group member was ready to head back down the hill and needed much encouragement to put the hiking shoes back on.

Can you spot the "Dead Women"?

Climbing to Dead Women's Pass!

Made It!

The early morning was beautiful as we climbed towards Dead Woman's Pass which at 4200m would be the high point of our hike.  We weaved between hikers, porters, and the occasional loose stone, making the summit to enjoy the last glimpses of the sun.  With half the group waiting at the summit we elected to descend with our assistant guide.  It was a knee-popping, 75' descent followed by an even more painful 2.5 hour wait in the rain for the group to arrive for lunch.  The joys of group travel.

Runcaracy Ruins!

Our patience was rewarded with afternoon sun for our visit to the ruins of Runcaracy - named for its egg-like shape - and the impressive Sayacmarca.  Javier gave us thorough history lesson on its strategic and religious importance.

At the pass we made an offering to Pachamama - Mother Earth to ensure a continued safe passage.  Javier has been passionate about explaining the nuances of Quecha society with our small stone cairn - with each stone covered in three coca leaves.  Paying homage to Pachamama and Pachapapa central in their belief system.

Descending the pass was steep and another knee popper.  Our reward was endless vistas of the Vilcabamba range under a bright orange setting sun.  A final tramp for 30' and we were in camp.

Despite Javier's 'no alcohol on the trail' rule, he broke it himself offering up two bottles of 'Ron Cartavio' rum for the table a dinner.  At 3600m and already weary hikers the mood got jovial quickly and we certainly won the award for loudest dinner tent at camp that night.

The stars were amazing with Orion, and the Southern Cross clearly visible from outside the tent.  Unfortunately it was a little too chilly to star-gaze for long!

As promised our 'hard' hiking in the first two days ensured a short 1/2 day walk to the final camp before Machupicchu in day 3.  Javier told that we were finally walking on the 'real' Inca Trail, used by the Incas for Religious pilgrimages twice a year.  Unfortunately, cloud obscured our views for most of the morning before heavy rain greeted us for the very slippery descent into Winay Wayna.  Through it all the porters flew down the hill wearing sandals and with 70lbs on their back - amazing - weaving between trekkers carefully negotiating each step.

As per Javier's word the clouds and rain lifted after lunch and we made a short side trip to the ruins of Winay Wayna, a former small farming community with convex terraces still in pristine condition almost 500 years later.  Being ahead of the rest of the tour companies allowed us to tour it on our own.  Dee and I were so overwhelmed by its detail, setting, and the rushing waterfall in the valley above that we lingered the entire afternoon soaking in the incredible scenery and its significance.  We contemplated how all the soil has been transferred by llama from the Jungle, how they moved the huge stones to the site let alone how they managed shape each stone to interlock with the rest without the use of mortar.


Our group gorged on dinner like it was their last supper.  The excietment of what lay ahead early was contagious.  Aches and pains were being quickly forgotten and we were all silently praying for some clear sky which we had not seen much of the last three days.

After tipping and bidding farewell to our porters - they walk down the side of the mountain to catch a train back to their village OR to start the trek again - we made an early bed as the 4:30 wake call would come quick...