Dee feeding the Llama in Bogota

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Breakfast with a view - Huaraz, Peru

Mt. Huascaran (6768m) Peru's Highest Peak

Breakfast should always be so idyllic.  The view above from our fourth floor balcony at Olaza's B&B in Huaraz, Peru is peace, grandeur, and relaxation personified.  We've been on the run since arriving in Peru almost a month ago.  Cuzco, the Sacred Valley, the Inca Trail to Machupicchu, and capped off with an epic four day trek among the snow capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.  More on all that in the coming days, I promise!




We arrived in Huaraz six days ago from Cuzco via a connection in Lima.  After almost 5 weeks in the high plains and mountains of Bolivia and Peru our rapid decent to Peru's frenetic capital of 9 million people was a shock to the system.  Located on the coast and under cover of thick smog we had just a scant few hours to land, change our end of trip flights at an American Airlines office somewhere in the city and catch our 1pm bus to Huaraz.

When the cab driver causally locked our doors and asked us to secure daypacks between our knees we knew we had returned to the 'big city'.  As seems to be South American custom we weaved between cars, bikes, and trucks, treated traffic lights with contempt, and made new lanes whenever possible.

After 45 frightening minutes we arrived at our bus depot - locked tight and well secured - to collect our tickets, check baggage, and confirm our departure.  Now time to hit the streets again.  We found a ramshackle cab to take us the 10 minutes to the AA office.  After a few more frustrating moments - and numerous Visa payments -  we had our flights changed from Lima to Bogota in June and found ourselves back on the street.  Happily Dee eyed up a Starbucks and we stopped for a drink before another hair-raising ride back to the terminal.

It took well over 90 minutes to escape the seemingly endless barrios of Lima.  A notoriously poor city planted in the middle of a coastal desert it looked desolate, desperate and we were happy not to be returning.  Unfair judgement I'm sure but we found ourselves overwhelmed after the numerous small towns and cities - touristy and beautiful Cuzco the exception - we've explored since leaving Buenos Aires in December.

With the last of the brick and rebar behind us we found ourselves weaving along the Panamerican Highway cutting through light brown sand dunes rising tens of meters above the road to our right while the vast blue Pacific ocean pounded against the shore 100m straight below the road.  After the greens of Cuzco and the Sacred Valley contrasted with the gray skies that frequented the days, the glaring sun, blue skies, and shaded of brown desert seemed other-worldly.
Endless Sand North of Lima, Peru


After 3 hours we left the coast, received our second hot meal, and began the climb to Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca.   Our bus wound up the endless switchbacks without reproach and we swayed like two drunken dancers at last call.  After four hours of rocking our road weary bodies made it to Huaraz where we found our B&B, a warm shower and very comfortable bed.

1 comment:

wasamatau said...

The picture of Mt. Huascaran is a real winner!!