Dee feeding the Llama in Bogota

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Falling For the Falls




We’ve been accused of not varying our adjectives enough in our blog entries.  While ‘stunning’ is an effective descriptor, we’ve been encouraged to branch out a little more.  Today’s visit to Iguazu Falls provided numerous opportunities to do that.

The falls lie on the Rio Iguazu, which borders Argentina and Brazil, some 40 minutes by public bus from the tourist hub of Puerto Iguazu.  After the luxurious comfort of ‘Tutto Letto’ yesterday the 'bone shaker' welcomed us back to reality. 

The park is situated in the middle of a rainforest teeming with colors.  Countless plants, flowers and wildlife inhabit the park with the latter being completely tamed to the tourist milling about.  Such is often the case with parks throughout the world that encourage large scale tourist activity.

As the park is accessible only on foot – plus a small train to cart us to Garganta Diablo – the entrance was more like a zoo than park.  Numerous restaurants, curios, and a large visitor centre filled the first 800m, all connected by a well manicured clay blocks walking path. 

Dee and I of course yearned to ditch the crowds – which were steady on this national holiday Monday – and dove for the lower route which hooked around the back of the park before emerging at this jaw-dropping view.  

Followed by this one….


We were frozen in our tracks for several minutes, pausing from the view occasionally to shake our heads in collective amazement.  The sounds were incredible as we slowly wound our way to closer to the water.   Camera shots were being fired quicker than arrows at Custer’s Last Stand afraid we might miss the view.  No fear of that.

A total of 275 waterfalls throughout the park serve to add to its majesty.   As one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the Earth we arrived with high expectations and it was quickly raising its own high bar.

We made a very short boat ride to Isla San Martin, which is centered between the two major falls, allowing us to get intimate with both the falls and a very large Iguana.

The rainforest setting made it quickly outdistance its Niagara Falls rival.  The numerous walkways, while a bit conflicted for  a ‘Natural’ wonder did assure that people viewed respectfully while getting an intimate view from numerous vantage points. 

Our final walk of the day – about 20k all told – brought us to the ‘Garganta del Diablo’ (Devil’s Throat) and the thundering cascade of water was deafening.   From here you could fully appreciate the power and wonder of falls as they dropped some 80m to river below.

Star struck, we quietly trekked back along the park somewhat snowed under by the effort and sensory overload.
We were unsure that night as to tomorrow’s plans.  A trip to neighboring Brazil to view the falls required a complicated VISA requirement so we elected to trek the trails missed and repeat favorite highlights.
The sky was clear and sun was hot when we arrived and we thankfully hiked under the canopy along the Macuco trail.  Numerous monkeys, Coati (large rat-like creature), and butterflies entertained us to and fro with the trail ending at the spectacular (thud!) Salto Arrechea falls where we cooled our feet and admired the view. 


The day’s clearer skies and increased river volume from the recent rain – re my birthday – changed the falls significantly.  Mesmerizing rainbows were in plentiful supply, framing most of the day’s pictures. 

Diablo was an even grander spectacle, which we enjoyed with quieter crowds.  A lady beside Dee was brought to uncontrollable tears upon first sight, powerful stuff…

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