Hustles in bustling San Telmo

The Sunday market in San Telmo was on our to do list.  After an early morning run on nearly deserted streets – a shock after the calamity of the previous day's walk – we continued to explore on our way to the market only to find that the shops, like the people were taking the day off.  Dee’s carefully planned café stop was closed, as were the next two ‘plan Bs’.  Where had everybody gone…

Arriving at the market helped solve part the equation.  Within the first hour of opening the place was mobbed and would require careful maneuvering to negotiate.   We heard English in abundance, a sure sign we had found a tourist spot.  Apparently a popular Thanksgiving destination if you don’t fancy Turkey and Ham with the family in the USA…

Dee eyes up a deal in San Telmo

Stalls were neatly organized on each side of the beautiful, cobblestone Defensa Street spanning some 20 blocks.  Where space allowed vendors purposely pushed themselves out into the intersecting street in an attempt to produce a greater storefront. 

The variety of goods and food on offer was incredible; A full Parillas offering any cooked meat you’d like on those tasty white rolls we’ve been fighting getting accustomed to; A 10,000 LP collection of Argentina, American, and UK artists of years gone by; Che Guevara’s and Maradonna’s face pasted on just about anything imaginable including my favorite – the Bath towel.  Just as the revolutionary Che would like to be remembered I’m sure.  We found colorful blankets from Peru, numerous jewelry of varying quality from local artists.  Leather products from boots to wallets being hawked to the passing crowd. 

Our beginner Spanish limited the conversation to “how much”, “too expensive”, “No thank you”, and “NO! Thank you!”.  Truthfully, most vendors possessed a Zen-like peace, unlike similar markets I’ve experienced in Africa, or Asia.  Most seemed content to let one have a look rather than quickly start a negotiation over something you weren’t interested in the first place.

I spent an interesting 10 minutes with an ‘Argentine’ with a dubious Texan twang.  His collection of used books in Spanish and English was eclectic; Maradonna’s autobiography, the collected works of D.H. Lawrence, and an entire collection of Mafalda – Argentina’s cartoon legend -.  Incredibly he seemed to be able to comment competently about all, the sign of a good salesman.

A view down Defensa

Dee was stopped in her track by a Colombian photographers stall.  He left Colombia 5 years ago, traveling  and shooting the continent, then stopping intermittently to sell enough prints to keep the journey going.  We’ll be curious to see if he is still there when return in a few weeks. 

By the we reached Plaza Dorrengo, where the original market began and is still held daily we needed to pop off to main drag to have a breather before jumping back into the fray.  We stopped for a refreshing OJ from this cute little vendor before exploring the now increasingly busy streets and parks as the sun faded in the sky.  

Fresh squeezed OJ - Sweet!

Great day.