Day 15 Elk Prairie Park to Eureka CA – 91km

Why does the guidebook lie?  Yesterday’s BIG hills we not bad at all,  well today’s ‘rest day’ was nothing but one short steep grunt after another.  Oh well, all about embracing the journey right?

We went for a daybreak hike into the Cathedral grove in the Redwood Park.  The trees are massive; some over 300ft tall and rising straight as an arrow from the valley floor. Dee kept herself busy trying to find the perfect light for a photo as the fog lifted and sunlight beamed through the trees.

Ironically after not seeing one Elk at dusk or dawn in the park, we came across an entire herd eating breakfast 20 feet off the 101 highway as we started the day’s ride.

Today’s ride brought us in and out of the parks, which are dotted by now semi-deserted small logging towns.  To be honest we are not sure what people might do to eek out an existence but here might be one clue if you had any woodworking skills…

We visited the pretty Patrick Point State Park, before getting a to go lunch and enjoying a warm stop at Little Bear River Beach near Trinidad.  With Eureka in our sights we were sent on a 10-mile ‘detour’ to avoid highway construction taking us along bumpy country roads before spitting us out in the town of Arcata.  We returned to the 101 that has now turned into a busy, angry four-lane freeway and the last miles to our campground not in the least bit enjoyable. 

We ended the day with standard tapas and wine.  Our commercial KOA campground has provided us with unobstructed views of the 101.  At least there are some wild blackberries to pick and eat.  As I close this note Dee is giggling as we sip wine, eat some chocolate and watch the cars zoom by. 

The Avenue of the Giants – Redwoods that is – awaits.

Day 14 - Harris Beach State Park – Elk Prairie State Park, California.- 106km

With the wind already blowing the wrong direction when we broke camp at 9am we started with little enthusiasm as this was to be a difficult day.  The first hour saw us cross the 1000km mark and cross into California.  Numerous quiet country roads provided us with some protection from the wind and even more opportunity to pick blackberries on the side of the road.

California here I come!

Hesitant to try a lunch stop given the events of yesterday we were pleased to find a rare Starbucks in Crescent City.  Their ‘take comfort in rituals’ – and fre Wi-Fi-marketing campaign suits us just fine and we took the time to escape the wind, email and skype as well as get some caffeine in the blood before our major climbs into the Redwoods. 

Our first climb of 6 miles took us in the first of the Old Growth coastal Redwoods that we will seeing the next few days.  Pictures of crashing waves were replaced by shots of bigger and bigger trees as we slowly climbed into the clouds on an otherwise gray afternoon. 

Thinking about adding some campwood on the the BOB

A quick descent brought us into Klamath and the ‘Trees of Mystery’.   While the life size Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox were a selling point in themselves we decided that more of the real Redwood awaited so we solidered on over the next climb to the next state park. 

Our last 6 miles was a lazy descent through more old growth Redwoods and we were lucky not to end up in the ditch as we crooked our necks left and right trying to sees the girth and height of the these trees. 

Tired legs caused us to abort a pre-dinner hike and we cuddled up on a bench and waited for the famed Elk.  However we’ve come to  find out the Elk have defected to a different herd so they are enlisting help in renaming the park.    

An Open Letter to the Gold Beach Chamber of Commerce

Dear Sir or Madam:

We write regarding your ‘Gold Beach Visitor’s Flyer’ that you provide the numerous visitors centers along your lovely Oregon coast.  As we are cycle touring along the route and anticipated stopping for lunch in your town – as it is the only town within 30 miles along the ride – we enthusiastically selected a flyer, carefully reading the restaurant descriptions and viewing the accompanying map.  We found a few issues we wish to point out to you in hopes of serving visitors better in the future:

1.     You have 2 interesting restaurants numbered #80 – neither exist and instead a trailer park does.

2.     A Mexican take out restaurant is located where Rachel’s Organic Coffee shop and restaurant is supposed to be.

3.     #’s 22,23,4, and 6 exist on a street corner that…  Does not exist!

4.     The only restaurant that does match is map placing took us to the home of Double D breakfast –“Over one pound of fried meat” and a ‘Light Lunch’ consisting of ‘Cottage Cheese, Hamburger Patty, and Ham’!

We hope you can work to make a legible map for future visitors so they don’t have to unwillingly suffer the same intestinal distress we have for the last 36 hours.

Regards,

The Traveling Thomsons

Day 13 – Langlois – Harris Beach State Park – 115km

Did you ever get in a fight as a kid?  It was always OK to trade some blows until you got punched right on the nose.  You know the kind; eyes water, stinging pain down your face, and the good ones always lasted a while.  You always remembered for the next fight – NOT on the nose!-. Today’s headwind, which coincided with our longest travel day felt just like that.

Yesterday’s tailwind had turned into a 15mph headwind by the time we started our day @ 9am.  When we approached Port Orford and saw the large yellow sign that read – "If lights flashing  Extreme Wind Conditions Next 27 miles" – we knew today might be a challenge.  The road would skirt the coast the whole way - stunning – but provide an extra challenge.  56km would take us 3.5 hours before we made a very regrettable lunch stop in Gold Beach, the only town on our route today.  

We fared no better in the afternoon, actually looking forward to the hills as it provided reprieve from the wind which had doubled (maybe quadrupled) in strength.  Thankfully, there was some spectacular (thud) diversions including Arch Rock, and Turtlehead viewpoints.  We finally slid into Harris Beach @ 5pm with a solid 7.5 hrs in the saddle and some windburnt faces.

Dee at Arch Rock, Oregon

Determined to make the best of first day of ‘work’ this trip we refreshed with a shower and bought the local grocer out there stock, returning to the park for this amazing sunset

Sunset @ Harris Beach State Park

along with a new Pinot to enjoy.  Rumour has it I was snoring by the time I hit the pillow…

Where has all the good bread gone?

Our time in Canada has spoiled us again when it comes to good bread.  A month of the freshest, tastiest, and lovingly made bread from Gram in Nova Scotia can do that to a person.  Mom Thomson’s bread maker can also put together a fine multigrain loaf that she magically cooks up in the oven.  Kim’s recently discovered Cobb Bakery in Vancouver made many a breakfast a full course meal.

It seems the concept of fresh, whole grain bread has not made it across the border.  Shouldn’t this be part of the free-trade agreement.  It’s sad when the ‘go-to’ bread is the French baguette from the local Safeway which we have convinced ourselves that its pretty good.  Please save us…

Day 12 Sunset Bay SP – Langlois – 92km

Breakfast with the whales anyone?  We started our day early and chilled as we made a short ride from our campsite to the Simpson Reef over look  at Cape Arago in hopes of seeing – albeit from a long distance – hundreds of sealions and seals sunning themselves on the rocks.  We were not disappointed and had a good laugh watch them crawl about the rock to find their own space while barking filled the crisp morning air. 

Viewpoint @ Simpson Reef

We did not expect to find Gray Whales ‘spouting’ as well but were amazing to see two of them doing just that as they to are making the journey south at a leisurely pace. 

Excited from the scenery we slowly but enthusiastically ‘attacked’ the Seven Devil hills after leaving the park and enjoyed the flat descent into the small town of Bandon.   We had planned a coffee stop here and we pleased to find our new friends Phil and Liz, along with parents Robert and Sue had already found the perfect spot with even a convenient spot to park.

We enjoyed a quasi lunch in the sunshine, while we alternated trips to the Cranberry Sweets & More candy store across the street which was offering more free samples than a hungry cyclist could with a sweet tooth could hope for. 

With sore bellies, smiling faces and many miles to go, we slowly inched our way out of Bandon via the scenic route which included the prerequisite stunning viewpoints and Dee’s dreamhomes.

The miles ticked along until Langlois where faced a decision.  Today’s State Park of choice was closed for the year, leaving us with a hilly 10 mile side trip to the next park or the local KOA, offering an opportunity for fresh laundry, internet, and an early night.  We wisely took the latter.

Florence OR to Sunset Bay SP – 101km

With a couple of minor repairs to the BOB needed we had a late start to the morning but a prevailing winds and fewer stops ensured we made a decent pace.  After yesterday’s stunning ride we both started the ride a little ‘down’.  You know the day doesn’t promise what the last delivered while that is a little unfair to the ‘moment’ that you’re in it is not unexpected…

The next two days riding will bring us in close contact with the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.  About fifty miles of the coast and inland area is a coastal desert interspersed with huge spruce trees, which creates a visually spectacular scene.

Today we encountered quite a scene fly by on the road while we took a rest.   A couple (we were later to be told from Germany) absolutely flew by us carrying their entire house - Including at least one youngster in a chariot buggy! - between them.  Good to see that they are out there living it although I must think the hills are more than a challenge!

The sun peeked its head out mid afternoon, which completely changed the appearance of the Dunes as we slid into North Bend and our evening’s stop at Sunset Bay State Park. Our park lived up to its name as we enjoyed yet another bottle of Pinot Noir and a monumental sunset is this secluded and uninhabited cove. 

Sunset @ Sunset Bay State Park